Anthony Bourdain

A BEGINNING. AN END

July 29, 2011, 10:02 AM  |  Comments (100)  |  Permalink

It all began with Ferran Adria in more ways than one. It was because he reached out to me in 2001, invited me to come see him (in spite of the fact that I had written unflatteringly of him in Kitchen Confidential) that my partnership with zero point zero production began. It was because he agreed to throw his life, his restaurant, his workshop and creative process open to our cameras that we began our first venture in independent television production. It was because of him–and Food Network’s lack of interest in an El Bulli show–that Chris Collins, Lydia Tenaglia and I went out on our own, reached into our pockets and funded that first bare bones trip to Spain to shoot what later became the film (and subsequent episode of No Reservations), “Decoding Ferran Adria”. It was Ferran, who, truth be told, became the impetus for our show, now in its 7th year. And it was Ferran who was responsible for my meeting Chef Jose Andres when he showed up at an early screening of the film as his US representative. I can well remember Jose standing up at the end of the film and announcing to the audience his approval. It was a very proud moment for me. In those days, when Jose’s mouth moved, it often seemed that Spain was speaking. That kind of generosity should come as no surprise to anyone who has ever known or worked with Ferran Adria or his brother, Albert. They have always shared, never clung jealously to their hard won creations. And once again, in spite of the world world banging at their door, looking to get one last meal, one last interview, one last meal at their legendary restaurant, once again, they opened their lives to me.

It peeves me beyond reason to read unknowing people describe El Bulli as “fancy”, or “pretentious” or ” snobby.” Nothing could have been further from the truth. For a third of my last meal there, we ate with our hands. There were no elaborate table settings. It was never a particularly expensive restaurant by European standards–especially three star Michelin ones. Best I can tell, they never even operated at a profit. Jackets and ties were never required. If it was ”exclusive”, that was only because millions more people wanted to eat there than their 50 odd seats could accommodate. Yet, somehow,tables were made available on a regular basis for fishmongers, bartenders and cooks from the neighboring town of Roses. If sous chefs from Chicago to Sydney seemed, magically, to receive the kind of treatment usually reserved for government ministers and oligarchs, it speaks all the better of them.

I don’t know if Monday’s episode is the best depiction of what the Adrias did at El Bulli–though I’m pretty damn sure it is. I do know that our producers and camera people and editors and post production people went all out–did their very best work. This show was a labor of love and much gratitude. We were determined to get it right.
We shot in Hospitalet, the town near Barcelona where the brothers grew up. We shot the staff meal at El Bulli. It was insisted I work the line a bit–to get a better idea of what’s really involved in getting those amazing creations to the table.
We shot the single greatest restaurant meal of my life–and one of the very last to be served there. We shot at Tickets, the more casual restaurant in Barcelona which, by the time you read this, will be the only place you can eat the food of an Adria brother.
We shot–and will show you–what’s next for El Bulli, which closes as a restaurant any minute now–forever. You will see the animations and blueprints of the entity to come–and hear Ferran describe his plans for the future.

And, to a great extent, you will see all of this through the eyes of Jose Andres, who began his career as a young cook at El Bulli, and who joined me for an unforgettable careen through Catalonia, eating and drinking and enjoying life as one can, it seems, only in his presence. I’m still recovering. Jose alone would be reason enough to watch this show. By the time you see the show, what you will be watching will be history.

Posted By: anthony bourdain

100 Responses to “A BEGINNING. AN END”

  1. [...] if your listening…Hats off to you dear sir. This spe­cial El Bulli episode of No Reser­va­tions was one of your best yet. It was appar­ent that not only you but your pro­duc­tion team really [...]

  2. sleslieb says:

    The Azores show followed after the El Bulli episode – sort of hal-f listening to it when I hear you say: “People who don’t talk about food are [something] [something]…needless to say, we will not be doing any more Scandinavian shows….”

    Tony, baby, honey, sweetie, poopsie: DENMARK!

    JUST the Home Office of Butter…

    MERELY the inventor of blue-veined moldy cheese…

    ONLY the perfector of sandwiches so exquisite they make French patisserie look like a bad day at a kids’ finger painting class…

    Rub your tongue across some of that butter, that cheese, those samiches, that ham (oooo yes – Danish ham!)…and if I’m wrong: PROVE IT!

    Love, you, Tone.

  3. dierwolf says:

    Chef, my name is Josh Schneider. I am a glass artist at the beginning of my career. I've seen this episode twice now, and both times I wept tears of joy at the obvious give a shit you ALL put into your craft. I find it doesn't matter what you make, art, food, music, any of it, as long as you care. The Adria brothers, and your friendship with them, and the obvious joy you all take in amazing food, is truly a wonderful thing to behold. I hope one day to be able to give you, and them, a gift of a vase, to show my appreciation. Thank you and keep up the good work.

  4. RolandCasey says:

    I enjoy his show and unique down to earth perspective. Being from New Jeresy too I paticuarally enjoy his jokes and sence of humor. Count me in as a fan ! http://lipotrimtrial.net

  5. Nj_Website says:

    I enjoy reading posts on cooking and chefs life. So when I saw this great post on Anthony Bourdain, I was very pleased and bookmarked this site quickly. Now on I will follow the posts regularly. I already recommended this site to my friend and families who love to collect information on Travel.
    http://efikasdesign.com

  6. jamesboags says:

    Good article about travel thanks for sharing with us all.
    gold buyers

  7. Once in a short time I see someone doing a particular task and surprise, “Why are they doing such a thing? Is it for financial gain, self-fulfillment or a little absolutely dissimilar?”
    is how Anthony Bourdain describes his site. The tales may be tall but also true.

  8. adam says:

    Thanks Anthony for another great article!
    how to make a rap

  9. debradeitch says:

    As soon as very quickly We observe somebody carrying out a specific job as well as shock, “Why tend to be these people performing this type of point? Could it be with regard to profit, self-fulfillment or perhaps a small completely different? ”
    is actually exactly how Anthony Bourdain explains their website. The actual stories might be high but additionally accurate.

  10. camelia2011 says:

    Calculette Pret Immobilier thoroughly agree with the earlier comment, the the web is certainly with out a doubt developing into the most important style of communication across the globe and it's due to web-sites such as this that thoughts are distributing so promptly

  11. What?? says:

    great goodness!

  12. [...] called the meal he had there during that visit “the single greatest restaurant meal of my life.” I [...]

  13. Terry Relph-Knight says:

    Your show is a little gem. I was completely blown away by the El Bulli episode – really mind expanding. All those grumbling about it being disconnected from reality and being pretentious, totally and utterly missed the point. Yes there are people starving in the world, people eating garbage and those making good meals out of the cheapest ingredients. This show simply showed the other end of the spectrum – food as an art form. The world would be a poorer place without it.

  14. peter dichsen says:

    Sir, I just enjoyed greatly your El Bulli episode. I had read some about him and his restaurant, saw him with Jose on the Charlie Rose PBS program, and, frankly, did get much out of it other than that he was greatly admired and marvelously innovative. Now, now I see what he has done, how it is common and exceptional at the same time, not merely clever, and with it for world travelers. It was an education about something I very much wanted to know.
    Thank you.

  15. peter dichsen says:

    Please forgive my typo just above, I think it clear I meant to say, "did NOT get much out of it. . ."

  16. newsletters says:

    If there's a beginning, there's an end the example is our life. Because our life is a borrow from god we don't know when he get this life.

  17. Hyer Dement says:

    PABA for no more grey hair. when you feel the need for the worlds best in Cigars and a $125.00 sunday buffet. I am your fixer for the area, really and a Saturday lunch after a visit on KISS MY ASH 94.3 the Palm Beaches 9am to 10am. Goggle me, two time winner of The Florida Seafood festival oyster eating contest… My Grandmother was a Baker of north Florida.