Anthony Bourdain

Goodbye to All That

September 1, 2008, 10:25 AM  |  21Comments (4,890)http%3A%2F%2Fblog.travelchannel.com%2Fanthony-bourdain%2Fread%2Fgoodbye-to-all-that%2FGoodbye+to+All+That2008-09-01+14%3A25%3A48anthony+bourdainhttp%3A%2F%2Fblog.travelchannel.com%2Fanthony-bourdain%2Fread%2Fgoodbye-to-all-that%2F  |  Permalink

My one and half year old baby daughter loves olives. And caper berries. And salty parmigiano reggiano cheese. Her love of rabbits (as food) is already well established. But I discovered today that she adores polenta–served with the hot, rendered fat of roasted game birds. And that she goes absolutely bat shit over risotto made with wild nettles. And when her Mom dips a finger in the local red wine, she greatly prefers it to juice. This makes me very proud.

So there\’s the \”Labor Day\” show coming up (actually a clip show/behind the scenes extravaganza–mostly sweepings from the proverbial stable floor, some previously unseen stuff of varying interest). And that\’s it for original episodes of Season 4.

In the interim between seasons, there will be some \”specials\” from time to time–stand-alone projects and ongoing mini-series-within-a series on various food and travel themes.

But rest assured, we are already hip deep into production of Season 5. Which is how I\’m writing this from Lombardy, where I\’m taking a few days rest and family time after the Mexico shoot, girding my loins for the rigors of the upcoming Venice show. Tracey, Todd, Zach and Nari, are, I‘m told, taking a mule train over the Alps to meet me.

As you may or may not know (or care), we like to use visual and audio \”cues\” for each new episode of the show–a particular and distinctive sound and look, usually ripped off from a movie we admire. We looked, for instance, at a lot of early Japanese films before shooting the recent Tokyo/Kyoto show, trying to ape that wide-screen, slow panning, carefully composed frame stuff you see in some of them. For the Hong Kong show, we boned up on a grab bag of \”New\” Asian, from Ringo Lam, Takashi Miike and Kenji Fukasaku, to some of the kookier Korean thriller directors–also the insane \”Tokyo Fist\” and the \”Tetsuo\” films.

William Friedkin\’s terrific \”To Live and Die in LA\” was the whole and entire inspiration for the LA show\’s oil rigs and brown hues. For an upcoming DC show, author George Pelecanos\’s superb Washington based novels–and his work on the greatest dramatic series EVER on television, \”The Wire\” formed a kind of center of gravity. Our Chicago show was filmed in a state of full-on hero worship, as I\’ve been long besotted by Michael Mann\’s Chicago-based film, \”Thief\”. For Venice we\’re looking hard at Nicolas Roeg\’s \”Don\’t Look Now\” and Paul Schrader\’s creepy \”Comfort Of Strangers\”.

Let me stress here that I\’m not comparing our shows to any of these masterworks. I\’m just saying we like \’em a whole helluva lot–and try to rip off ideas from their cinematography and soundtracks as best we can (in our own cheesy, low-tech way). I\’m very proud and happy when commentators–especially those from within the industry– notice that the camera work and editing on the show have really stepped up this past couple of seasons. Much hard work and a lot of truly ingenious innovation have gone into making the shows: difficult camera movements, jury-rigged platforms, mobile camera mounts, and acts of foolhardy athleticism on the part of the shooters.

I should make particular mention of the brilliant, home-made \”Owl-Cam\” rig used in the Saudi desert. Basically, it was TWO DV cameras, mounted on a wooden platform so that their shots overlapped, resulting in a super-wide yet cost-effective Cinemascope-like panorama. The work of the editors, too, only gets better and better. Tasked, for instance, with cutting the Tokyo/Kyoto show \”as if there\’s gonna be NO eventual voice-over!\” or \”make it look like you dropped acid and went to Hong Kong!\” they again and again rise to–and exceed the challenge. And the increasingly daring post-production graphics by Adam Lupsha have been adding a new dimension of weirdness to the mix: At the end of the Southwest show, he managed to \”make\” a 16 wheel tractor trailer jack-knife in front of my car, filling the screen. It was a truly astounding shot. Terrifying–even if you knew it was coming and knew how it was achieved. I thought it was the perfect ending to the show. But, people at the network imagined that BMW, who\’d lent us the car, might be displeased to see what appeared to be their proudly displayed vehicle \”crushed\” into a crumple of blood, hair and brake fluid at the end of the show. Too bad. It was an amazing feat of animation.

When I brag about \”the Best Food Porn Ever\”, it\’s entirely because of the people I work with, the kind of talent at work on this show–behind the lenses, and back at ZPZ Central. I\’m very aware that there would be no show without them (I certainly wouldn\’t go about the fairly undignified business of appearing regularly on TV without them) –and I am enormously grateful.

What else is coming up? And where?

It\’s (finally) back to Vietnam. The Philippines.. The Azores. Thailand. Provence. Sardinia. And a Detroit/Buffalo/Baltimore hybrid show which (I hope) will pay low rent homage to Curtis Hansen, Vincent Gallo and John Waters respectively (There will NOT be a Pink Flamingos finale, however). Ethiopia (we hope) Cuba. (We hope) . Back to Beirut (eventually). And beyond.

I get to go to a lot of fantastic places on this show. But you should know that when you see a four minute scene of me eating in a three star restaurant, it represents four HOURS of work for three camera people while I enjoy myself at the table, three to five more–for whoever arrived early to shoot kitchen prep and countless more for the post-production people back in New York. A full \”hour\” show can take up to NINE WEEKS to edit, mix, color correct and so on.

That said, last week, we were in Puebla. Carlos, my old friend from Les Halles, told us to pull the production van over at the side of the road near his home. The follow cars full of relatives pulled in behind us. And then, there we were, no cameras, only me, the crew, Carlos, Martin (our old Mexico fixer from Cook\’s Tour days), Carlos\’s Mom and Dad and cousins and nieces, gathered around the thin wooden board constituting the counter of a tiny, neighborhood taco wagon under a naked light bulb. We stood there, drinking Tecates after a long, long day\’s shoot; the crew happily tearing into tongue, brain, head, eyeball and tripe tacos dressed with fiery sauce. I was proud then too.

As I said, I get to go to a lot of fantastic places–and see many beautiful things on this show. But none more beautiful to me than today, looking out at the town square, my wife spooning that last bit of foamed milk from the bottom of the cup, my little daughter feeding herself olives with two fingers.

Later, around the next corner, on the next cobblestone street–or maybe the one after, there is the promise of gelato.

Posted By: anthony bourdain