RAW
by Anthony Bourdain
Generally speaking, there are two distinct audiences for this show: people who like to look at images of food and are interested in where it comes from and how it got to the plate—and people who like to travel—or like the idea of travel—and enjoy watching images of faraway places and cultures. Oh—and there’s also a smaller group who apparently enjoy watching me get falling down drunk and stupid. But that’s another matter.
This week’s episode is about food. More specifically, it’s about the creative process that leads up to the food that will eventually be served in some of the world’s finest restaurants.
COOK IT RAW is an amazingly low key gathering of some of the best and most creative chefs in the world. For the last few years, people like Rene Redzepi of Denmark’s NOMA (recently named best restaurant in the world for the second year in a row), Alex Atala of Sao Paulo’s DOM, Albert Adria (El BULLI, TICKETS), Mauro Collagreco, Massimo Bottura, Daniel Patterson, David Chang, Magnus Nilsson and others have been getting together in various remote and fairly off the main grid locations where they challenge each other to forage, improvise, figure out what’s good in each location—then, using non-traditional methods—make the most seriously ****ed up creative single plate their fevered imaginations can muster. The result does not have to be usable in a restaurant setting. It is not supposed to be a fully realized dish. It is definitely not something that any of the chefs have ever served or even tried before. It should be something so wild, so out there, so purely creative and exploratory that the other chefs will suck wind and issue a collective “wooaaahhhh.”
For a few days each year, COOK IT RAW serves as a combination workshop, field trip, summer camp for culinary hotshots. And it’s a lot of fun.
This year, COOK IT RAW was held in Ishikawa prefecture in Japan—and NO RESERVATIONS decided to look at the area—-and at the event largely through the eyes of first time invitee to the gathering—and first time visitor to Japan, Charleston South Carolina’s Sean Brock. Sean is a young chef from coal country who in a remarkably short period of time has become a big name in the culinary firmament. At his restaurant HUSK, he’s been trying to rediscover traditional American heritage foods, source ingredients entirely and exclusively from below the Mason Dixon line—and redefine what “real” Southern cooking is—or could-be. He’s a very serious guy (except when he’s not) with impeccable taste in bourbon. Watching him discover Japan for the first time was a true joy.
COOK IT RAW is, unlike any food and wine festival I can think of, about the pure spirit of creativity. There are no public events. No free tastings. After days of exploring local culture and food sourcing methods and techniques—and doing a hell of a lot of eating and drinking, the visiting chefs (along with some local ones), gather (by any means necessary) their ingredients—many of them unfamiliar—and cook. The plates or service “platforms” they put their food on, are created by local craftsmen. The chefs have no say in choice of “plate” and have to accommodate some occasionally very freaky designs. The results of their labors are served to a small group of local and visiting journalists.
There are no winners or losers or grading or official evaluating of the meal. Each chef presents their dish, then retires to the kitchen. Presumably, at some point later—probably over many sakes, or while marinating in the onsen, the chefs discuss among themselves what they’ve learned from the experience.
Kooky. Huh?
Anyway, it should be fascinating TV .
I want to thank the organizers of COOK IT RAW, and of course, the chefs. They had not previously had to live with an invading television crew during their adventures. They were—across the board—friendly, inviting, generous with their time, and fun to be around.
I wish I could say the same for one of the “lions” of the food writing community—someone who (until this trip) I had always liked and looked up to. Over the course of a few days, he revealed himself to be the most vicious, abusive, misogynistic, back-biting piece of shit I have ever met in my life. (and after 30 years in the restaurant business, that’s saying something). I’m hardly the nicest or most polite guy in the world. But even I was shocked. When not shouting profanities at the chefs, bursting into noisy and prolonged bouts of flatulence during the traditional tea ceremony, insulting and belligerently interfering with my crew by petulantly flashing his cell phone camera directly into their eyes while they were working (“I’m a journalist! I’m allowed!”), this guy was drinking himself stupid. It was only through their infinite mercy—and perhaps no small amount of pity for this elderly and shambolic creature, that my crew did not punch his face in. They were sorely tempted. Anyone who attended the event will surely recognize which particular steaming dribble of ordure I’m talking about.
Lesson is? **** with my crew, you **** with me.
On that cheery note, be sure to tune in Monday!
If Tony or anyone comes back to Madrid, Spain, you should check out Mercado San Antón on Calle Augusto Figueroa. This market was totally renovated and opened last summer and those of us who live here prefer it over San Miguel. Cheaper, with incredibly innovative tapas that leave the dread croquetas and boquerones option in the dust. — Vichyssoise served in a small cup over an intense fish consomme, savory foie gras over a grilled paper thin slice of eggplant and finished with a saffron hollandaise on a slice of crusty chapata bread is to die for, and about 1 euro. You rarely hear anything but Spanish spoken here as all the tourists are down at San Miguel paying 4 euros for a gummy croqueta. The market closes at 10:00pm — shocking early for Madrid but you can wander out into the off beat Chueca neighborhood for a cerveza con limon and just watch the parade.
I've noticed that you don't like being on boats. I found a great solution to ward off motion sickness, tho it won't help you with wet feet from wearing the wrong shoes. Anyway, I have used the Relief Band in the air, on boats, and in the car on curvy roads. It really works. Here's a link to the newest version. Try it. Really. You'll see it really helps. http://www.aeromedix.com/aeromedix_articles/relie…
It is a freaking travesty that this show never made it to Philly.
I would love to see an episode filmed in Mauritius, where Indian, Chinese and French cuisine mix.
So, who is the **ckhead food critic Tony refers to so ardently?
We caught one of your re-runs and decided to do a weekend in Austin. Gotta have a wet suit for that Barton Springs, man; Brr…I finally made it to Perla's Seafood and Oyster Bar with my wife; Perla. It was great, but alas, they no longer have trigger fish on the half shell. We did have snapper "on the half shell", however. It was righteous, man.
Great timing on the move Tony: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2012/05/30/cnn-rati…
Great move, CNN. Not only do you get Tony, you also get Zero Point Zero.
Anthony,why did you feel the need to comment on the Tea Party? It's obvious you know nothing about them, and I'm so disappointed I won't watch your show anymore. Getting your news from CNN is a mistake.
Another TV personality that thinks we care about his/her political views. Zip it.
Tony..u need to get ur u know what to Nepal and do an episode there. Its a fantastic country with very unique cuisine found nowhere on this planet. Imagine over 100 different indigenous communities and every one of them having their own specialty. U will have to bring in your spare belly to eat all the foods on offer there.
Marine Barracks in Washington, DC, home of the Commandant, hosts the 9th annual Military Culinary Competition. Mystery Box, middle of the street, 15 teams. We would like to talk with Mr. Bordain about helping us. MGySgt Camacho interested in having a conversation, which he thought about when seeing the video of the Marines rescue of Mr. Bordain. How can we reach Mr. Bordain? Thanks
I am long time viewer, first time commenting.
I've just now got around to viewing the Tijuana episode. As I record all your episodes for later viewing.
Be that as it may, you may have found your chauffered drive around Tijuana in a PINK Cadillac, a tad, awkward uncomfortable and ostentatious.
However, the mere fact that the limo was PINK, not armored and sans bodyguard
convoy, signaled to all that, whom ever rode in that limo, probably were not Drug Capo's.
No self respecting Drug Capo would dare drive around in a Pink limo!
Powder blue, maybe
A word of advice, you are getting to old for "tequila blanco". Stick with your añejos and reposados.
Tony – we think you are doing a bang up job, thanks for the entertainment. One question: I myself traveled extensively internationally for years – and my stomach got fucked – well it's gotten better over the years. I have to ask – are you, or have you gotten nailed yet from bad food? I got hit at El Fogon in Playa del Carmen (actually El Fogon II), Mexico after years of living and working all over Latin America and Spain (which by the way, love your show in San Sabastian – been there and going back
I know it happened to me after about 5 years to the point whereby I almost died – but living and working in these countries is still unmistakably awesome, then I continued living and working in these locations after getting better enough – still I cannot imagine that between you travel channel guys haven't gotten hit. Hope you are well, best,
Michael
I'm a Finn living in the USA, and my daughter is a young chef who was pleasantly surprised by Mr. Bourdain's encouraging remarks during his visit to JWU campus. The program on Finland gave an ugly, disrespectful and distorted picture of a decent people and country that may not have the most spectacular cuisine in the world but does have talented chefs and wonderful natural ingredients to offer visitors anyway. Mr Bourdain is privileged to go to places and share his experiences with people most of whom will never have similar opportunities. Why he would make such a self-indulgent program about a place he did not want to visit or learn anything good about is very disappointing to me.
A creme de la creme, Chef. rfaol!
Well deserved vacation Tony enjoy while they last , big fan since you started and ive seen the improvements thru out the years,your a great narrator. And i want to invite you to Puerto Vallarta you got to check it out we travel there at least twice a year and the food down there is amazing from "hole in the wall places" to best restaurant in the country like Cafe De Artistes Bistro Gourment voted by the guide ,Also __La Leche travel + Leisure Gourmet award restaruant .Trust me its worth it also best surfing places Sayulita for example contact me and we will head down there and be more than glad to show you around .check it out and I promise it will be worth it thanks Art R.
Hey anthony i'm from india and a big fan of yours.i am from india and i have
Stayed in the same place you did,but no wedding thank god.i am also royalty,
A prince of some sort they say.what was your favorite dish and why.i my self
lived in the states for 42years in port.ore. moved here when i was 3 dont much
care to go back.6 pack and a pack of smokes,some good chow.other then that I
Realy don't give a crap.like your style,and our you going back for another visit?
If you ever end up in port. Ore.drop me a gmail,we can go out and get tanked.name(prasann)best travelsto you.
Hi Anthony, I am a former tour guide in Havana, Cuba. I liked the article of your visit here. In the past I attended many groups from the US from an agency called eldertreks and my clients were senior citizens. They share your experience in Havana, Cuba. They simply loved the fact of not having McDonald signs in every corner or starbucks. They were also impressed with the architecture and restoration by the Oficina del historiador (Eusebio Leal Spengler). If you ever travel to Cuba again you can count with my help, my contact is on the site link.
I also worked as a tour guide in Cuba and Havana is slowly changing, but mostly in Old Havana and the parts restored by Eusebio Leal Spengler. Other than that everything is the same.
My kids could have learned soo much on the countries you visited but the language, amount of alcohol ego_caused me to scrap your show. Do you really know how many children you could reach if you would clean up your mouth_ and be some what of a host to the younger. bleeep, bleep, bleep, drink, drink, drink, can't that happen off camera?? Do you use that language around your wife and daughter?? Just not right for a man who could teach and not reject
Anthony Bourdain – I want to be you. I know you hear that often, but really…having the ability to travel, meet great people from great cultures and parts of the world, and then being able to share those experiences with others is such an amazing gift. At 23 years old recently graduated from college, I don't know what I want to do- or more importantly, what I CAN do – but if it were up to me, I would do what you are doing. To a "T."
Why didn't I ever hear of him?..
Mr. Bourdain: First I want to thank you for showing me the Japan of today. I was born and raised in Japan and last time I saw home was back in 1977(after I got out of then Army). My mom was Japanese and Dad was in the Army and never saw U.S. until I was nineteen, you could say I was made in Japan. At any rate, when No Reservation was still running, I was hoping you would do a trip to Yokohama(hometown). But what I got was just as terrific, a glimpse of home, somewhat changed, but still home. Again thank you!! Andy
Great website. I picked up quite a lot. I hope to come back on your future updates. Keep up the great work.