RAW
by Anthony Bourdain
Generally speaking, there are two distinct audiences for this show: people who like to look at images of food and are interested in where it comes from and how it got to the plate—and people who like to travel—or like the idea of travel—and enjoy watching images of faraway places and cultures. Oh—and there’s also a smaller group who apparently enjoy watching me get falling down drunk and stupid. But that’s another matter.
This week’s episode is about food. More specifically, it’s about the creative process that leads up to the food that will eventually be served in some of the world’s finest restaurants.
COOK IT RAW is an amazingly low key gathering of some of the best and most creative chefs in the world. For the last few years, people like Rene Redzepi of Denmark’s NOMA (recently named best restaurant in the world for the second year in a row), Alex Atala of Sao Paulo’s DOM, Albert Adria (El BULLI, TICKETS), Mauro Collagreco, Massimo Bottura, Daniel Patterson, David Chang, Magnus Nilsson and others have been getting together in various remote and fairly off the main grid locations where they challenge each other to forage, improvise, figure out what’s good in each location—then, using non-traditional methods—make the most seriously ****ed up creative single plate their fevered imaginations can muster. The result does not have to be usable in a restaurant setting. It is not supposed to be a fully realized dish. It is definitely not something that any of the chefs have ever served or even tried before. It should be something so wild, so out there, so purely creative and exploratory that the other chefs will suck wind and issue a collective “wooaaahhhh.”
For a few days each year, COOK IT RAW serves as a combination workshop, field trip, summer camp for culinary hotshots. And it’s a lot of fun.
This year, COOK IT RAW was held in Ishikawa prefecture in Japan—and NO RESERVATIONS decided to look at the area—-and at the event largely through the eyes of first time invitee to the gathering—and first time visitor to Japan, Charleston South Carolina’s Sean Brock. Sean is a young chef from coal country who in a remarkably short period of time has become a big name in the culinary firmament. At his restaurant HUSK, he’s been trying to rediscover traditional American heritage foods, source ingredients entirely and exclusively from below the Mason Dixon line—and redefine what “real” Southern cooking is—or could-be. He’s a very serious guy (except when he’s not) with impeccable taste in bourbon. Watching him discover Japan for the first time was a true joy.
COOK IT RAW is, unlike any food and wine festival I can think of, about the pure spirit of creativity. There are no public events. No free tastings. After days of exploring local culture and food sourcing methods and techniques—and doing a hell of a lot of eating and drinking, the visiting chefs (along with some local ones), gather (by any means necessary) their ingredients—many of them unfamiliar—and cook. The plates or service “platforms” they put their food on, are created by local craftsmen. The chefs have no say in choice of “plate” and have to accommodate some occasionally very freaky designs. The results of their labors are served to a small group of local and visiting journalists.
There are no winners or losers or grading or official evaluating of the meal. Each chef presents their dish, then retires to the kitchen. Presumably, at some point later—probably over many sakes, or while marinating in the onsen, the chefs discuss among themselves what they’ve learned from the experience.
Kooky. Huh?
Anyway, it should be fascinating TV .
I want to thank the organizers of COOK IT RAW, and of course, the chefs. They had not previously had to live with an invading television crew during their adventures. They were—across the board—friendly, inviting, generous with their time, and fun to be around.
I wish I could say the same for one of the “lions” of the food writing community—someone who (until this trip) I had always liked and looked up to. Over the course of a few days, he revealed himself to be the most vicious, abusive, misogynistic, back-biting piece of shit I have ever met in my life. (and after 30 years in the restaurant business, that’s saying something). I’m hardly the nicest or most polite guy in the world. But even I was shocked. When not shouting profanities at the chefs, bursting into noisy and prolonged bouts of flatulence during the traditional tea ceremony, insulting and belligerently interfering with my crew by petulantly flashing his cell phone camera directly into their eyes while they were working (“I’m a journalist! I’m allowed!”), this guy was drinking himself stupid. It was only through their infinite mercy—and perhaps no small amount of pity for this elderly and shambolic creature, that my crew did not punch his face in. They were sorely tempted. Anyone who attended the event will surely recognize which particular steaming dribble of ordure I’m talking about.
Lesson is? **** with my crew, you **** with me.
On that cheery note, be sure to tune in Monday!
Tony,
I watched, with a combination of fascination and a little sadness, the episode in Mozambique as well as Lisbon and came to the realization that I don't think you have gone to Cape Verde, Cabo Verde. It, much like Mozambique and Angola, are former Portuguese colonies that have evolved quite well once the "mother land" pulled out, however, still have quite a strong history and tie to them. It would be a great opportunity for the show to go there. The food and culture are very "Brazillianesque" with that Portuguese from Portugal accent but with a very strong African root. You would dig it. Also, if you need a translator, id be more than happy to oblige. Free of charge.
tony you have been all around the world, except central america. please consider going their. it would make a great episode
He has done shows on Nicaragua and Panama.
He needs to go to Guatemala. I'm amazed at how few of the travel and cooking shows ever venture there. It's an exotic wonderland.
i agree. i hope that one day i will be able to travel all over the world just like tony, but i will have a travel buddy expecialy in vagas.
Great episode Tony. I can only imagine what Cook It Raw was like in person. Anyone know if there are there any mini Cook It Raws in cities around the US? I read an interesting article on TickTickVroom.Blogspot.com advocating local Cook It Raw dinners. Hopefully someone will put something together. I would love to go to one in NYC.
i don't know of any cook it raws but i do know that over a dozen of the best cheifs in the world are convening in finland for the third editon of cook it raw. i found this at inside scopp SF
Tony,
I love this episode, it features the sheer creative joy of what passion on cooking is all about.
I can imagine, try plonking rachel ray in Cook It Raw, she couldnt even last a moment! Hah.
I wonder who is this elderly who piss over everyone's face.
I found this episode, along with a lot of the more recent ones, to be nearly insufferable in its smugness and grandiosity. Oh what a tragedy, to have a "signature dish" that the whole world loves and is willing to pay for. What a burden the poor, tragic figure of the lonely chef must be, as he flies around the world so he can dig in the dirt to pay homage to some romantic notion of "localism."
The irony seeps out of every minute of this farce. Just cook the food and be grateful for the adoration of everyone admiring the Emperor's new clothes.
dude, dont be hate'n
Tony,
Your show continues to inspire me to travel and to be open to the amazing experiences this world has to offer. I eagerly await your future adventures. I have enjoyed every episode of No Reservations, however the Cook it Raw episode left me a little disappointed. I have always enjoyed seeing Japan through the eyes of you and your crew. It always felt honest, real, sincere… it felt like Japan. I was so excited you would be returning there this year, and couldn't wait for the episode to air. But rather than an episode about Japan, it was an episode about a gathering of chef's and their challenge to each other to cook locally, wherever you are. The Cook it Raw event was interesting to see, but essentially had nothing to do with Japan. My husband and I have been to Japan, and I am sure you, just like us, thought it was a beautiful and amazing place with truly amazing people. I wish this Japan Episode would've showcased this more. Thanks to you and your crew for all of the hard work! I look forward to many more episodes of No Reservations. Safe travels!
And then there are those of us who love the show as it reminds us of our own travels, and meals we have eaten. I have been to many of the places you have visited and seeing your shows reminds me about what I loved about the places and what I want to check out next time I am over, but it also reminds me about all the places I still haven't been to, but are planning for.. Mind you, I only travel on my spare time so I obviously can't experience quite as much, but still. I manage to get away every month at least. Food is my passion, travel is my life. Through your brilliant show I can spend the time at home planning for my next adventure, while experimenting with flavours in the kitchen! THANKS!
OH, and one thing I forgot to mention; When I was in Jakarta, Indonesia, I was told that the spiciest food in Indonesia is in Manado, on Sulawesi. So of course I had to go there.
Of course they also say that in Manado, they eat everything – which turned out to be pretty true as well. Had a very interesting food experience up there, and if you are back in Indonesia at some point – that's an area that is very interesting to visit. Not a lot of tourists though, at least not off season when I was there – I was pretty much the only westerner in the whole town, all in all I saw six other people when I was there. But the people are super friendly and very talkative, even when you don't share the same language…
Enjoyed the Cook It Raw episode, I saw an article about the event in a magazine, enjoyed that but the TV experience was more entertaining, did anyone barf after eating an unknown mushroom?
i would laugh if they did barf! LOL
I don't know who the shambolic miscreant you mentioned is, but if it's who I think he is, you are to be commended for your discretion. Fifteen years ago you might have written something similar about Craig Claiborne, but as Jacques Pepin pointed out, he had been sliding down a pole of diminishing faculties for some time. If this is the case, then the augmented personality taking over this poor gentleman is probably an ordure forger.
I'm glad not to know who it is, but I'll pray for him just in case.
This is my first comment, and never had the need to before.
First of all, I thought the food part of this show was great–innovative and fresh. I do have 2 things to say:
#1–Tony and Chef Brock's generalization about what "Americans" are ready for was a bit offensive. I have had Mario's raviolli wrapped brains and they are indeed delicious. I also like them lightly sauteed with a little S&P and squirt of lemon. And Chef Brock, I don't require a butter sauce on a superb cut of anything, fish, fowl, or meat.
#2–Before I complain, were there actually any women chefs invited to this event? Was Chef Gabriella Hamilton even considered? I'd like to know, before I make any judgements. (If the answer is no, well……shame on you guys)
Finally, am I being overly sensitive, and if so please let me know, readers…..
deb
I totally agree with you about the obvious absence of women chefs. How could there be NO women? Could it be that women were invited and all declined leaving an obvious absence?
Hey deb,
Just in response…
#1 – While Tony and Sean may be generalizing, the sad fact is that there are many, many Americans who aren't ready for adventurous food. You and I may like brains, but unfortunately, that still grosses most people out. I could make a very long list of people I know personally who won't eat certain foods for whatever reasons, but it angers me just thinking that people -generally- aren't willing to try new foods, no matter how un-weird we think the food is. On the bright side, I guess that means more for us, right? =)
#2 – I don't know the details of the event, but I believe in Kitchen Confidential Tony wrote about how most restaurants are run by male chefs, and there is an awful lot of testosterone thrown around in those kitchens. For all we know, maybe women were invited, maybe they didn't come, maybe there just aren't enough of them. Think about it, though: how many women have been on Iron Chef? My guess is that women aren't as aggressively competitive so they don't enter the biz, but hey, that's just my guess.
Tony, great show, keep writing. Thanks.
Laura
I am trying to buy some new knives based on advise in the book Kitchen Confidential. Can someone tell me what site to go to buy the offset serated knife mentioned. Also I would like to buy a good turkey carving knife to cheer my ex-chef brother-in-law who carves my brilliantly cooked turkey every year with a shitty knife.
Tony, i love you show, and watching you eating is the best thing! It shows that you're reaaally enjoying!!!!
come back to Brazil again! We have so many thing that you still can see! Come to de south side of our country. You'll love our barbecue!!!!
dude, you missed the point when you went to calcutta. check this out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGDst94tCYE&fe…
the fact that tony drinks and eats like theres no tomorrow makes me wonder if he exercises. besides walking around the world.
I am not gay and there is nothing wrong with being gay, but I have the biggest man crush on Tony. I have watched every single season from Day 1 and there was a time last season when I thought there was a possibility for the show to jump the shark. However, so far this season may be the best yet. Finland was amazing. Keep it coming Tony! After grinding all day on a Monday there is no other way to settle down and start the week off. THANK YOU!!
Caught the COOK IT RAW episode last night. Most entertaining indeed. And of course I walked away from the episode assuming that I would be able to get a table at Sean Brock's Husk while in Charleston next week. As a KY boy with a great affinity for southern cuisine, I feel it my duty to support great chefs from the area. After learning of Chef Brock's roots, I now feel it imperative that I support his efforts. Much to my chagrin, there are no reservations available AT ALL. Not even the dreaded 5:30 offering… Best of luck to Mr. Brock, and Anthony: keep producing entertaining television. AAAaaaannndddd help me get a reservation next week…for four….at 7 pm….cheers.
First, allow me to apologize for posting about a topic tangent to this thread. New to this site, I am still finding my footing, navigating the various ins and outs of the show and its related web content. Opposite to popular conjecture, ignorance is not bliss. I am in the middle of Chef Bourdain's visit to Lisbon and would like to share a thought or two. Any suggestions?
Finland episode sucked….
It's refreshing that someone of your 'celebrity stature' is willing to learn from others, and have fun doing it. I'm glad you slapped down the "vicious, abusive, misogynistic, back-biting piece of shit" fpr his antics. In all the years I've watched your show, I've never EVER seen you disrespect any of the cooks or hosts. It's one of the things I like best about your show. I've learned much about food, where it really comes from, what it means to the people who prepare it, and the struggles many go through just to put something on the table for their families. Thanks for being you!
I would just say, that half of your audience likes Dick Cheney. Why would you alienate half of your audience? And why do you think we give a shit what you think about politics? Keep to the food, you're a cook. You make this crap about politics then I'm outta here. You may not care now but you will when you are just Tony the cook again.
Why don't you put up a fuckin recipe, cook something instead of resting on your laurels. I ate at les halls in the 80's, was good, now tourist trap. Line em up, feed um beef, shove um out…. I have no TV, so i don't watch your crap..
But i love to cook…
" Cook it Raw " and " Lisbon " were brilliant . In fact I'd place Lisbon in my top five NR episodes list with Cook it Raw in the top ten . Then you went and dumped Finland in my lap . So back to Hugh Laurie Mondays at 8 it was . Oh well … you took a break … it was the last H episode …. and maybe you'll redeem yourself on the up and coming show ….. maybe .
Show Suggestion ? Corsica . How you've missed that culinary wonderland with more eclectic spirit than 99% of the planet I'll never know … but its about time you rectify that one . Think about it . Combine French Italian and African cuisine …. a firey Independence no nation has ever crushed and views to take your breath away ….. and its warm ….. well ………. its about time you took your Jersey tail end over there and did an hours worth of show
Corsica would be marvelous, GS!!
Tony's SARDINIA and VENICE were the very best but, then, I am a prejudiced "born and bread" Italian
expat…..
After all, Corsicans are as much Italian as the people of Nice on the Riviera….
Anthony Bourdain, Hi, how are you? Tell Samantha Brown I absolutely love her HSN luggage pieces, that I'd use it on Family Reunion Vacations and am loving the cranberry color.. Please Facebook "Like" http://www.facebook.com/pages/SWEETCAKES/26454442… , so, I could UPS-SC&D Office Breathe Mints-Free Samples, to you and everyone else at the Travel Channel. xxoo, Ngoc Thao Nguyen Cell#2023783138
No idea if I should address you or the Travel channel about this: I live in Spain and would love to watch the shows — the whole shows, not just a minute 36 seconds. Any plans on allowing this??