Romania: What the hell happened??
Predictably, a lot of people either hated–or were deeply offended by–the Romania show. Most, I gather, are either Romanian or have traveled to Romania and had a better time there than I did. Quite understandably, no one wants to see the host of a travel show having a bad time of it in their country, griping miserably about how things went wrong–and how utterly fucked up things were.
But the fact is:
Things WERE fucked up. My Russian pal, Zamir, who had helped make such good shows in Russia and Uzbekistan, was definitely NOT a good choice to show me around Romania. I think, if nothing else, we made that explicitly clear.
The “Motel Dracula” was, in fact, just as bad a time as it looked. Maybe we fucked up picking that spot as something to cover. Though it’s certainly representative of a resurgent, Dracula-based tourist industry. What we DID show you, at least, was exactly how awful it was–and how unhappy I was to be part of such a bogus scene.
The scene at Vlad The Impaler’s statue in Bucharest was not atypical of the kind of “cooperation” and last-minute shakedowns we found whenever we tried to shoot at a “typical” everyday restaurant.
Even WITHOUT cameras, looking just for a relaxed meal, we’d often enter a near empty restaurant, ask if a table was available–and have the waiter tell us “No” in the surliest of terms. WITH cameras–asking if we could shoot was an invitation to either an instinctive “NO” or an invitation to gouging. As waiters and hosts it seems, work on salary–rather than tips, no one really seemed to care about more business, promoting their business or even making more money. People are still uncomfortable in general about being filmed. Understandable, given Romania’s history that many would be reluctant to have their picture taken–as this rarely led to anything good back in the bad old days.
But to describe Romania as particularly friendly? Not really. I’ve been all over the world. Over 50 countries. On the friendly scale? Romania not exactly in the top 40. The food–on camera, off camera? Didn’t matter. It was mostly pretty primitive. Soups may taste good–but they don’t make interesting television. I could lie. But I ain’t gonna.
Which is really what it’s all about, isn’t it? Should I–when faced with a show that’s clearly going wrong–as far as depicting good times and good food–do my best to LIE about it? Put on my best, tightest smile and slog through an hour, yammering a lot of utter bullshit about what a great time I’m having and how good the food is and how friendly the people? You can see that on every other travel and food show. Or get it straight from the tap–at the Tourist Board. This show never pretended to have any responsibility to show the “best” of any place–or the “top ten” of anything. Or to even be diplomatic. I, me, Anthony Bourdain went to Romania. I made some bad decisions. And this is the show I came back with. At the end of the day? That’s what happened. That’s what it felt like. Period. Frankly? I think it’s a pretty funny show.
Antoine (or Anthony, if you prefer): you are absolutely right: that country, where I used to live for 36 years, is exactly like you described it: (sa ma ierte romanii – shall I be pardoned by the Romanians) … You're a verry kean and observant person …
pork, pork, pork and pork: this is unfourtunately, 99% of romanian "quisine" … sometimes, you want something else: some gourmet cheese (which they have), with a good glass of red wine (which they don't have) … problem!
They don't have red wine ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romanian_wine
And this: http://www.chalie-richards.co.uk/blog/2013/03/25/…
Then come back with a true opinion.
The Russian guide wasn't the right choice for this trip.
You miss places such as "caru cu bere", probably the best place of Bucharest and some other stuff that only real Romanian could have shown you….
I really enjoyed this show for exactly the reasons Anthony mentioned. It was real and a real bad time with bad food and rude people and bad service and shake downs.
So I see on here Romanians jumping in and saying hey don't judge us by that place, go here or here, but this place where Anthony went sucks so what is point of telling him to go other places? Think how many tourists he saved from a terrible experience by being honest? Good job and good show.
Because there are bad places everywhere but also nice ones. And this happens absolutely everywhere. For example I had bad times in some places in US and got reeeeealy bored in Berlin. But that does not mean we should generalize this to the hole country. Well maybe except Germany. I really think most of it is reeeeealy boring
I spent a month in Romania last year and I am returning for another five weeks in a few days and I just wanted to say. I have spent time in Bucharest, Vama Vechi, Constanta, and Mongalia, and I have to say there are good things and bad things about any place but I truly enjoyed Romania. I think the food can be very good, in many cases it is on the bland side compared to american food but I think it has its own appeals, you can really taste the natural flavor or the meats and cheeses, without them being drowned in a sauce. I think the night life in Bucharest rivals that of New York City, I never had too much of a problem with service, but it was difficult to get a gin martini with olives. Of course the country is not as clean as some places, but if you enter with that realization I feel like you can have a great time without spending a lot of money, my total expenses for a month were less than $2000, not including the hotel room. I like the country and I am looking forward to visiting again next week. Depending on the comments I receive I may repost after I return from Romania.
Dear Anthony,
We just saw the episode in Romania and we want to tell you that the choise you made with your guide (that russian guy) it was very unfortunately. You schould have choose a romanian guide because he would know better were to take you (places to visit and to eat) and he could better communicate with the romanian authorities and other people.
You missed restaurants like: Caru cu bere in Bucharest, Calu balan in Bucharest, Delta Dunarii (Danube) and the local cuisine from there, Black Sea and it's night life and others,
In some aspects you were right, we are a little bit reluctant. It is understandable due to the bad history we have with the russions and you being accompanied by one.
Romania is in a process of changing, it is more beautiful now.
WE INVITE YOU TO MAKE ANOTHER EPISODE HERE BUT WE OFFER TO BE YOUR GUIDE AND SHOW YOU THE REAL ROMANIAN FOOD AND CULTURE EXPERIENCE.
And by the way, Bran Castle (Dracula Castle) is not for sale. And if it was we never sell it to the russions.
If you accept our invitation do it in the summer time (may-september).
Geo and Cristi
zara00@yahoo.com
Well, Anthony, maybe you shouldn't have fallen trap to the same ignorant perception that many foreigners have: "Romania, Russia, etc they're all the same". Maybe you shouldn't have chosen a delusional and unprepared traveling partner.
Yes, Romania and its people have many flaws, but it is totally your fault that you followed your friend's advice and celebrated Halloween (not even a legit celebration in Romania) with a bunch of tourists and a ridiculous and decrepit hotel. It's like going to a Microtel in the U.S.A. and then bashing the accommodations.
There are many things that I would change about Romania, but also quite a few that I am proud of. Next time you decide to put your "seal a disapproval" over a country and its touristic potential through a show watched by 120 million (as you proudly corrected your friend), at least have the decency to do your homework beforehand and give it a fair chance to show what the culture and food is all about.
Excellent reply, Ana! I fully concur. And now Mr. Anthony Bourdain can take his many talents to his new food show on PBS. Maybe that's a better choice for him.
I finally got to see this show; I am disappointed in you. I caught the undertone, especially with that comrade remark.
Do you have any idea how many people died in 1956; just to get the comrades out.
What about in 1989?
This is much like making fun of a an African American freed slave. If you don't understand, maybe you should look into history a little. Using this term is so much more than a faux pas.
Your detest for those people is clear. Had you been clever, you could have made us laugh.
Had you been well informed, you could have shown us so much more.
Schadenfreude, Herr Grunion, … Schadenfreude
hmm truth is Romania is very primitive about food…you tend to "import" italian recipes instead of discover and build your own. About the service in restaurants is almost the same except in moldova, always kind of bad mood, disapointing.
About the show itself Anthony chose really bad the guide and the spots thats all, romania deserves better.
IMHO, and i know Romania quite well from 7 years visiting there, is a really nice country for landscapes and ppl outside big towns are really friendly gipsies included, no more than that. Revolution happened recently and still present deep inside while the new generations aint able to find national values importing and absorbing everything bad from outside getting and growing a really bad attitude.
anyway…i love there, for photos.
Anthony , Romania has to offer not only good things but also bad ones. I agree with that. But in a show like this you have to admit that blaming others is not the way. I lived also in the USA , and in many ways i was wery dessapointed, —-of course…. i,m not talking about the cars… or the skyscrapers-(blablabla)–, but about the most of the layers of the society.(the greatest in the world:)))))
Anyway blaming others for your mistakes it is not very professional….
Romania is great abuout foods.. I recommend you to visit bucharest if u didnt already
Definitely funny episode, kept a smile on my face for about 45 minutes, nice job Tony! Romanians can become very frustrated (as you could see for yourself) but they love their country. With pros and cons. Cheers from Bucharest!
Difficult to be a "tourist" in Romania, but once you get to the spots, you definitelly enjoy, food, nature, parties, life………so leave the cameras away and get a Romanian showing you around. Cheers from a Romanian traveller
Next time try Maramures (http://www.romaniatourism.com/maramures.html)
Bucharest really sucks
Hey, guys!! are you fine. ? I hopping that must be you are well. You will be pleasure to know that a few minute ago i was read your whole article head and ears. Actually i was taken some of tips from in your content. Many many thanks for your nice sharing.
Really bad choice, Mr. Bourdain… I would never dream of going to Gary, Indiana (for instance) and film a show on American food and American lifestyle there. You didn't go to the favelas in Brazil to film a food show. You went there with your financially very well-off friends to high-end restaurants where you were surrounded by 4 waiters and one chef waiting on you…If this is not discrimination, I don't know what is. You showed the worst in one country and the best in another. Before bashing another country like that, please take the time to do some research. There are millionnaires in Romania too, next time before you call a country's food "primitive" , go to a good restaurant first.
i think you will love living in Romania. I have and i loved it. You'll find that people are very honest in their behaviour and open towards others. It's very easy to make friends.
Now it depends where you are going to live, In big cities there's a lot to do, there are tons of bars, discos, clubs, cinemas, you can practice almost every sport you want, and lots of cultural events. The traffic on the other hand, is gonna drive you insane. Smaller cities (under 300.000-400.000 people) are more boring, than again you don't have the traffic problem, you're more likely to be near the mountain or the seaside (which again, is god for weekend trips, skiing, etc). The food is great, despite what the idiot austrian said, and it gets very hot in summer.
You didn't mention what your age is, if you're gonna be in school or have a job. School is difficult compared to Western Europe, and rocket science compared to the US. But you'll make friends real quick.
It's not a good place to be if you are fat. I know that sounds weird but obesity rates are way lower in RO than in Western countries or the US, so fat people really stand out. Plus, romanians watch their weight a lot, so dieting is a common thing…
If you're a smoker'it's better cause lots of people smoke and cigarettes are quite cheap.
Most of all people are not paranoid, if you wait for someone in the hall of an apartment buiding, no one will ask you what are you standing there for, who are you waiting for etc, like in Germany or Austria…
No one is gonna call the police because your car is half outside the parking space and **** like that…
Be carefull when you drive on national roads, don't go over the speed limits, police cars are hidden in the smallest bushes
Plus, no one has race issues, no one cares is you're black and your girlfriend is milk white or viceversa. If you're a gay man however, it's a different story
Hope that helps, gotta go.
To the austrian guy: You're full of ****, I don't even think you've been to Romania. As for friendly people, 30% of your country just voted for the right extremist, so i guess you guys recognize nice, friendly people, when you see them!
Mr. Bourdain this is not a professional way of presenting a country, every country has good and bad sites. If you are professional you are able to see both, but you are not. Instead of asking a local guide to help you to see the local flavor and to make you understand the traditions of this country you preferred a Russian, by the way did you know that the Russians are the natural enemies of the Romanians.
Sorry for you mr. Bourdain, or what your name is, you're ridiculous.
See what Prince Charles has to say about Romania and its traditional food.
Mr. Bourdain , change your job, you're null.
Miss Anna the way you react is typical for Romanians, when a Romanian is confrontated with realism and they feel insulted.
Romanians know about norms and values, Romanians knowing in general a lot, can do everything, and often they can do better then an other, with their mouth but that's it. In Romania everybody blaims eachother, i'm sure
Romanians fit perfect with other Romanians and proberly some other 3th world countries.
Romania is India from Europe, and Mr Bourdain is right that Russia is better, why? cause Russians have character, Russians are real, they don't pretend, what you see is what you get.
Anna you are the living evidence for a She-ro, every country have good and bad sites, instead of mentioning the good site off Romania all you do is defend, without any realistic argument.
He explained why the entire trip wasn't pleasant for him or his crew. What more do you want him to say? He's made it clear he isn't going to lie.
Hello, everybody.
I live in Romania and I can tell you that, as all the countries all over the world, Romania has the pros and the cons.
The people in here aren't so happy because we're still stuck in the communist mentality where we had to endure the worst conditions we could ever get ( even though today we aren't better, but you get my point). We aren't so well paid than most of the other European countries ( the average salary is 150$), so you can see that we're working for surviving rather than for a decent living.
We always had problems with our 2nd most numerous ethnicity, the gypsies. Contrary to some beliefs, the gypsies AREN'T POOR ! They can afford BMW cars, 3 levels houses and "2kg" gold and platinum jewelry. They are stealing because they want to, not because they are forced to and many people are saying that the gypsies are the same with the romanians… WRONG ! they came from India and then spread all over the Europe.
Not to mention that the hungarians are putting some big pressures on us because the Transylvania region. They're still telling us that our acts were unjust for the hungarian population, but they know they can't do anything to us because our Constitution, but I won't give much details about this.
Romania is a very beautiful country and I'm proud to live in it, no matter what are other people thinking about this magnificent country.