Romania: What the hell happened??
Predictably, a lot of people either hated–or were deeply offended by–the Romania show. Most, I gather, are either Romanian or have traveled to Romania and had a better time there than I did. Quite understandably, no one wants to see the host of a travel show having a bad time of it in their country, griping miserably about how things went wrong–and how utterly fucked up things were.
But the fact is:
Things WERE fucked up. My Russian pal, Zamir, who had helped make such good shows in Russia and Uzbekistan, was definitely NOT a good choice to show me around Romania. I think, if nothing else, we made that explicitly clear.
The “Motel Dracula” was, in fact, just as bad a time as it looked. Maybe we fucked up picking that spot as something to cover. Though it’s certainly representative of a resurgent, Dracula-based tourist industry. What we DID show you, at least, was exactly how awful it was–and how unhappy I was to be part of such a bogus scene.
The scene at Vlad The Impaler’s statue in Bucharest was not atypical of the kind of “cooperation” and last-minute shakedowns we found whenever we tried to shoot at a “typical” everyday restaurant.
Even WITHOUT cameras, looking just for a relaxed meal, we’d often enter a near empty restaurant, ask if a table was available–and have the waiter tell us “No” in the surliest of terms. WITH cameras–asking if we could shoot was an invitation to either an instinctive “NO” or an invitation to gouging. As waiters and hosts it seems, work on salary–rather than tips, no one really seemed to care about more business, promoting their business or even making more money. People are still uncomfortable in general about being filmed. Understandable, given Romania’s history that many would be reluctant to have their picture taken–as this rarely led to anything good back in the bad old days.
But to describe Romania as particularly friendly? Not really. I’ve been all over the world. Over 50 countries. On the friendly scale? Romania not exactly in the top 40. The food–on camera, off camera? Didn’t matter. It was mostly pretty primitive. Soups may taste good–but they don’t make interesting television. I could lie. But I ain’t gonna.
Which is really what it’s all about, isn’t it? Should I–when faced with a show that’s clearly going wrong–as far as depicting good times and good food–do my best to LIE about it? Put on my best, tightest smile and slog through an hour, yammering a lot of utter bullshit about what a great time I’m having and how good the food is and how friendly the people? You can see that on every other travel and food show. Or get it straight from the tap–at the Tourist Board. This show never pretended to have any responsibility to show the “best” of any place–or the “top ten” of anything. Or to even be diplomatic. I, me, Anthony Bourdain went to Romania. I made some bad decisions. And this is the show I came back with. At the end of the day? That’s what happened. That’s what it felt like. Period. Frankly? I think it’s a pretty funny show.
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Hey Anthony,
I am Romanian. I would like to say that the reality in this country is different, but it isn't. We, the Romanians, just got used to it so to us things don't seem to be so unfriendly. The thing is we have even worse problems than those you pointed out (thing that the European Union points out all the time and the Government does nothing about them), so I can say you were very nice.
You did a great job describing the country and the foods. Of course, there are some great places and traditional foods that you didn't try, but that's normal, I don't expect you to cover every square foot of every country. Perhaps your guide should have been Romanian, because we know our country and our particular places/foods better than Russians do, but Zamir wasn't all that awful.
The truth is a Romanian would also have guided you towards mititei, sarmale, ciorba (but better ciorba, not the one you ate
), where I would have added some other great foods such as bulz, tochitura ardeleneasca. Anyway, Romania is decent during spring and summer, autumn is not a good choice if you want to enjoy a nice view but hey, that's the way it really looks like in autumn, it's nothing exagerated about it.
Overall, when I heard about the scandal about this episode I thought about the worst, because the guys from Top Gear did a show here and they were really malitious and unrealistic (everybody here hates them for that), but you managed to be polite in a non-polite country, where it seems that only the local people can enjoy themselves. It's sad, but it's the truth. I wish you all the best and keep eating and travelling for all of us.
Regards
Dragons, before you talk, watch the show. He ate all that shit and the tour guide was not at fault for anything.
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Anthony,
I've been watching your shows for quite a while now and I did enjoy this one as well. I agree, getting a russian guide in Romania wasn't quite the smartest choice for a number of reasons. You didn't capture quite the best of Romania, nor quite the worst. The way you've balanced the good and the less good in your show I think is a reflection of exactly how you felt.Watching this particular one there were times when I felt somehow offended or ashamed but I strongly belive you missed a lot but not having the right guide. Next time you wanna do a piece on Romania, give me buzz. I'll be more than happy to take you around.
When the show first aired I did not really care about it. I have noticed the fuss around it but I did not care. After all, I know how it is to travel around Romania.
Years later I found the time to see it from the beginning to the end.
I appreciate the realism of the situation. But that was just a part of the situation. I can only tell you that I have met similar situations in countries that usually provide good accomodation to the tourists. Should I label everyone in that country according to that? No. Would not make any sense.
Regarding your choice of transportation you – and anyone else – should know that THERE ARE "rent a car" companies in Romania that will provide you with a large variety of cars, from the most rugged ones – suited to the most harsh conditions – to the smallest on the marked, you just have to ask for them. You really do not need to rent a Dacia (especially an old one, which were actually 2 of them – just check the license plates, one was from PH and the other was from MM, not to mention the difference in painting of the cars) from a regular citizen. That was YOUR choice and must be pointed out.
On the Bran Castle and Vlad the Impaler you were wrong from the beginning. Yes, I know it is easy for you to believe the far east of Europe is full of misteries and to expect vampires and warewolves at each corner, but that is only you.
If you ever want to try the Romanian experience again, you should use a different tour guide. I cannot guarantee you there will be filming rights all the time, but at least you will get a more informed individual
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The question is: what the hell happened to you, Anthony? You disrespected a country and the culture! You showed lack of professionalism! Take an example from Prince Charles. He is simply in love of Transylvania as it is “an extraordinarily beautiful and culturally rich place”… Shame on you!!
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I COULD SEE THIS TRIP WASN'T FUN BUT IDID ENJOY SEEING THE SMALL VIALLGES AND SHE OLD PEOPLE WITH THERE OLD WAY OF DRESSING. IT MAKES ME WANT TO GO VISIT.. I WANT TO KNOW THE NAME OF THAT VILLAGE WHERE ZAMIR CELEBRATED HIS B-DAY.. WHEN I TRAVEL I LIKE THE VILLAGES SO MUCH BETTER THAN THE LARGE CITIES…
When Zamir is drunk, he is funny. When Zamir is ho-ing you down and you don't know about it yet, but he's breaking into a nervous sweat, he annoys the piss out of me. It's like he's trying to explain homosexuality to you without your permission.
Just another point of view: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Yn_t3Gi1Bg
Russian guide in Romania = terrible idea.
Cheers-
Oh… and one more thing: we Romanians don’t love Russians actually at all. Not to mention that they have a “big brother” attitude with us, which I can clearly see here. Getting that smartass to be a guide in Romania is like getting a Palestinian to be a guide in Israel. All that Dracula crap was very bad taste indeed, but that is NOT representative for Romania, and only problem I see is with someone’s idea to shot the show there.
Sorry Tony, I understand your frustration, but this was indeed a failure, “thanks” to that Russian drunk.
I am living in Vancouver now, and I have to admit that I really miss some culinary experiences from back home. If you ever think to go back, get a Romanian guide. I am sure you will have a completely different experience.
Cheers-
We Romanians do not hate Russians . Maybe you do but don't generalize please. The Russian guide had nothing to do with the show failure. Anthony,s frickin attitude did it. And let me tell you, if he's getting payed all that money to travel, he should do his homework before he goes to a country.
i am a chef to..but not an as hole like you!…have you ever put on you tube just like this…"what would be the world without Romania?"…try'it sucker…and maybe than you will realize that what you said about this nation it is wrong as you on this mother planet….reading your crap book Kitchen confidential..and this report about Romania…..bro…u should be ashamed of your self….but yes…there are people like you out there that can taste yo sht…..just garbage…that s what u are!.
So the show was pretty good, funny, loved Zamir, loved the beautiful country images. I don't know why people would be offended by it.
What I am offended by is this blog. The fact that you turn around and say the food is bla when you obviously enjoyed it and you know it's a lie when you say it is average. I have been living in the states for 8 years and not once I have tasted a complicated dish made from scratch that preserved the flavor of simple ingredients. Let me tell you something: anyone can throw spices together and make a flavorful dish. The simple dishes are the ones that require talent and time. You call Tuica "cheap" but it's no different than the Austrian Shnaps.
Bottom line, in the end of your documentary you said you had a good time and I thought you did because except a few incidents, people seemed to be very friendly to you and Zamir. Then you turn around and say you had a shitty time. Make up your mind and if you are so proud of always saying things as they are, don't say something and then take it back.
Anyway dude, I'm disappointed because after so many shows I watched and thought you are the real deal I look at this blog and I'm like : this one is full of BS just like all the others that think a few days of travel gives them the right to paint a picture about a whole country, SAD!!!
I forgot to mention that although you should have gotten a Romanian tour guide, Zamir seems to be genuinely sweet and friendly and I think that he was respectful when talking about the history and food. I think he tried his best and he was not a bad choice at all. You're the one that was a sour puss the entire time. Maybe you should be less judgmental and enjoy things more, even if they are not " up to your standards". For real Anthony…
The simple truth is that there is no national pride about litter or environmental cleanliness, or bribes. If the (many) decent romanians sttod firm & said 'no, its not ok to trash or downgrade Romania & i wont stand by & ley you do it' then few places in europe would compete. Levels of decency, family & religious values, street crime, violent crime, violence against single females such as rape, are by far the best in east & west europe. This easter for example, the country has practically shut down to reflect easter. In the uk, my homeland, its just a chance to go to the sales & buy more stuff. Say what you like but a clean Romania where progress can be made without knowing the right people, rather than doing a decent job top my favourite destinations.
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