SOUTHERN COMFORT
I just got back from family vacation, where, for ten days, I violated all my rules and everything I’ve ever preached about how to travel. I stayed put. I rarely left the hotel grounds. I ate in the same two restaurants for most of my trip—rarely deviating from pasta, pizza and gelato. Though there was a lake a few hundred yards walk down, I never put so much as a toe in it—spending the bulk of my days instead, splashing around in the shallow end of the pool with a Barbie pail , an inflatable porpoise, and a relentlessly energetic 4 year old girl. It was marvelous.
I missed—or was at least physically absent from—the monstrously overblown “controversy” about the dietary choices of “regular people” and the larger question of whether I am a cruel, horrible, snake-eating, Yankee liberal elitist—or just an occasionally obnoxious guy making a point. Or a bit of both. Without revisiting a week where I found myself in the rare, worrying– and yet strangely satisfying position of having both FOX News AND the New York Times drop a deuce on my head, I’ll let this Monday’s episode of NO RESERVATIONS make my argument for me.
The show begins in New Orleans, a city I feel very connected to—and continues deep into the heart of Cajun country and culture. The South—particularly (but not exclusively) Louisiana, is where “American” food comes from. There are certainly other uniquely regional cuisines and specialties in this country—but creole and Cajun constitute uniquely American-born mutations. They could not have occurred anywhere else. Like the birth of jazz—they were created at bizarre yet magical intersections of cultures and circumstances—the end products of long journeys, much pain and simple pleasures.
One of the things I’m always looking at as I travel around the world is “where the cooks come from”. And if there’s a regular feature, a common thread wherever you go in this world, it’s that the best cooks and often the best chefs come from the poorest or most challenging regions. And it is without doubt that the greatest , most beloved and iconic dishes in the pantheon of gastronomy—in any of the world’s mother cuisines—French, Italian or Chinese–originated with poor, hard-pressed, hard working farmers and laborers with no time, little money and no refrigeration.
Pot au Feu , Coq au Vin, Sup Tulang, Cassoulet, pasta, polenta, confit, —all of them began with the urgent need to make something good and reasonably sustaining out of very little. So many of the French classics began with the need to throw a bunch of stuff into a single pot over the coals, leave it simmering unattended all day while the family worked the fields, hopefully to return to something tasty and filling that would get them through the next day. French cooking, we tend to forget now, was rarely (for the majority of Frenchmen) about the best or the priciest or even the freshest ingredients. It was about taking what little you had or could afford and turning it into something delicious without interfering with the grim necessities of work and survival. The people I’m talking about here didn’t have money—or time to cook. And yet along with similarly pressed Italians, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese, Indians and other hungry innovators around the world, they created many of the enduring great dishes of history.
So the notion that hard working, hard pressed families with little time and slim budgets have to eat crappy, processed food –or that unspeakably, proudly unhealthy “novelty dishes” that come from nowhere but the fevered imaginations of marketing departments are—or should be—the lot of the working poor is nonsense.
The many Cajuns who were good enough to host us on this Monday’s episode make this case, I think, far better than I ever could. Notice, when you watch the show, how everybody cooks. Men, women—even the kids seem to be helping out. Many aren’t cooks, per se, but everybody we met , everybody, was really, really good at at least one dish. Cajuns proudly trace their roots to a particularly harsh and brutal diaspora, followed by a steep learning curve as they adapted to an incredibly difficult new environment. Their culinary traditions reflect that.
At the traditional “boucherie” I attended, an entire community swung into action within seconds of me putting two bullets into the guest of honor. And one and all– everyone, from musicians, mechanics, to the town mayor—set about demonstrating the real guiding principles of gastronomy. Slow cooked, “smothered” and “stuffed” turkey wings, a stew made from the backbone of the pig, delicious, hot boudin made from the blood or less expensive bits, head cheese, cracklins. None of this was expensive. None of the cooks were professionally trained. But what I ate that day—and on other days—in Lafayette, Breaux Bridge and Eunice was some of the most delicious food I’ve had anywhere.
And what about New Orleans? There’s nothing fancy or expensive about the wonderfully kooky Afro-Chinese hybrid street food, Yakkamein, or red beans and rice—or the fried chicken at Willie Mae’s. A good muffaletta sandwich, an oyster Po’ Boy—these are not expensive luxuries, they’re birthrights—and no one who’s eaten them can ever say they are any less delicious than anything served in a Michelin starred dining room. Made well, by someone who knows what they’re doing, they are unimprovable by man or God. They are also, one would assume, quite delicious and quite fattening enough without squeezing them between two Cinnabons.
For ****’s sake, the South pretty much taught us all to cook. They know what good, affordable food is—having pretty much written the book on the subject. All I’m saying is that Macaroni and cheese is a good and noble dish. Deep fried macaroni and cheese is no better and certainly no more affordable.
This is the last episode of NO RESERVATIONS of this season. We begin shooting a new season in September, but in the interim period, while we’re out there travelling, I hope you’ll find amusement—and maybe even some useful information– in THE LAYOVER, a ten episode, high speed mini-series we just shot in an alternately thrilling and exhausting bounce around the world, from New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Rome, San Francisco, Miami, Montreal, Amsterdam, London, and Los Angeles.
And for the NOLA/Cajun episode, I want to thank Lolis Eric Elie, Wendell Pierce, David Simon and everybody from the HBO series “TREME”, upon whose previous works and extensive research and experience we shamelessly piggybacked.
Tony,
love, love, love you to death. August? Seriously? I want to be your assistant in and for life, but not if you can't even blog for 3 fucking months? Come on you big dick. Let's party.
I don't know if you will get a moment to read this but my husband and I loved this episode. Why on earth we waited so long to watch No Reservations is beyond me. Thank you for helping us think outside of the box and making us want to visit the entire world one plate at a time!!!
P.S. Had I not been watching I might not have braved tasting the octopus in Mexico on my honeymoon – I'm so glad I did. Thanks for giving this chick the balls to try new things! Keep up the great work!
I have an interesting business proposition for you and the travel network? It is a new idea and it comes from my recent travels. It is something near and dear to my heart, and it does involve restaurants. How can I contact you?
Have your people meet my people, and my people will tell you that he never even reads this shit.
Dear Anthony,
As a son of a Spanish mother and Cuban father, I have enjoyed your Spain, Cuba & South Florida shows immensely. When are we going to Galicia?
Your Cajun show was as close to perfection as possible in every aspect. Congratulations!
Jose
Tony, I think I love you. I was watching the Cajun episode and found myself smiling at the TV. Then I realized I do that most of the time while watching "No Reservations." I often laughed out loud reading "Kitchen Confidential." I'm a lousy cook but a great lover of food, which I came to love through my dad, who was Chairman of the Culinary Institute of America back in the late '70s and early '80s. Maybe I saw you on the other side of the glass the first time I ate in the Escoffier Room? Can't wait to see the new show. Keep on doing what you're doing. It is good. No, better than good. Much better than good.
Okay I watch the Vietnam:Central Highlands, you featured this people that was supposed to be the "Monteyards" I tell you they may tribes people but they are not the Monteyards. How do I know because I am one of them here in the US. They don't wear clothes like us and they don't speak our languages.
I used to wait for your show to come on not only to see amazing food, but to watch the incredible conversations you would have with the people who made it, or were touched by it. It seemed very natural. But now, everything seems forced and fake. don't do it. you know what i mean, just don't.
"don't do it. you know what i mean, just don't."
Don't be so coy. Everyone knows you want him to do it. You want him to keep on doing too.
Anthony, I loved the show and article on Cajun/Creole. I don't know what those ungrammatical people mean about you becoming stale. Some people just have to drop a deuce on everything. Anyway, I live in Panama City FL and you ought to go to nearby Apalachicola and do a show on oysters and the men who harvest them. Then come to Panama City and eat at Hunt's Oyster Bar. I'm telling you, there's an episode there.
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Dude, I'm on my break …
To Tony Bourdain: One place you have not been to, a place that always falls off the radar: Dhaka, Bangladesh. Did you know that all great Indian restaurants in London and New York are owned by Bangladeshis? Go to the origin: Dhaka.
Love your show, I am from Panama where you did a show, I go every year looking forward to your new show "The Hangover" later.
Doug Coffey
Madisonville, Ky
Mr. Bourdain I am pleading that I can post my story (although directed @food Network) here for you or someone to see. I just want a chance and I am a small person and have no idea how to contact someone that matters. Here is what I have written:
Hello, my name is Kevin Southerland and I hope I have a unique idea.
First, let me just say that if I were to choose one channel to watch it would and always will be the Food Network. I am a huge fan of Guy Fieri, and I love almost everything he does. I love his style and the fact that he is a real person. I love the connections he makes with people and I love watching him try food (although I have to admit I get extremely jealous -and- hungry). To me he's just a genuine person and he LOVES his job.. if he even calls it that. It just seems like a dream.
I also really enjoy watching Robert Irvine because he has a strong attitude and can do almost any task put in front of him. He inspires me and I love the new Restaurant: Impossible because of the second chances and rebirth of spirit he can provide to the owners and workers.
I am writing not just to praise these who I admire (and trust me I admire so many more people at the food network) but to tell my story and ask if maybe I have an idea that could become reality.
July 26, 1996, I broke my neck because I chose to dive into a above ground pool which has paralyzed me from the neck down (but not completely). I have pretty good use of my arms and so-so use of my hands, but my determination has always pushed me to figure out ways to do things.
When I was younger I was hugely into sports, and on the side I was kind of creative, but I never really spent time on the arts because I always needed to burn off energy. That came to an immediate halt when I was 16 (1996) because of the accident, so I turned to art and computers. I grew with computers and studied computers, but all the while my TV was there with the Food Network on. People would ask me how I was able to watch it 24/7 and I'd tell them because I love food, but more importantly I love learning about food and I love making food because it is always a great feeling if someone eats something I made and really truly enjoys it.
I started my college days in 2002 at Grand Rapids Community College, taking courses for graphic design and general ed. I graduated from GRCC with a Associates in Art and had a few Honors semesters here and there. In 2005 I started my journey for my Bachelors Degree at Kendall College of Art and Design, in Grand Rapids, MI. I graduated in 2007 with Honors and achieved my degree in Digital Media.
All the while, and all the time spent, I couldn't help but feel this wasn't what I was meant for. I feel like I am meant to be a part of something and help others, and get to do what I love so much and that is to COOK.
The point of this is, and I am sure I am not the first, butt I would like to ask if their is a possibility that I could produce (um. make? ) a show that has someone WITH ability cooking something but then in turn I use gadgets and work with my physical disability to show people, like me (and even able viewers) how to overcome.. how to be determined..how to do something even if it seems like the hardest task in the world, BUT if you love it..and I LOVE IT you will and should find a way to make it work (no matter how "different" I/you may look). I think that I would be shy about the cameras and such for a bit, but once I get going (and we all know how Bobby Flay started haha) I will be a force to be reckoned with.. I will learn and soak up and test and overcome whatever I can to -MAYBE- help someone who thought it couldn't be done.
Thank you!
Kevin Gary Southerland
Cedar Springs, MI
I am sorry if you don't want to read this and if it offends you.. but you are also A HUGE inspiration to me because you don't stick to the norm and don't conform to bullshit.
I watched the Layover last night. Way too many split screens and jump shots. I lost track of the commentary many times because my mind was trying to keep up with the constantly changing visuals. I watched the lead in New Orleans show. Comparing the two, I felt involved in New Orleans. I felt no involvement in Singapore. I wanted to visit New Orleans. I felt no connection with Singapore. The latter was like a ten countries in nine days tour. If this is Wednesday we must be in France! I can say I’ve been there, but I really experienced nothing of the country.
You are right. Watching the Layover in New York was a dizzying experience. I fell out of my chair. All those images … I am going to sue those guys. I have nightmares about split screens. My head exploded. I am still trying to figure what that show was about. No more split screens. Uh, oh — I am having a flash back. Split Screens!
So when are you gonna really break into the bigtime and try a pork martini, Tony? Yes, pork…ding ding! Booze…ding ding ding! You say you're a pork lover, pfft! Prove it. You have yet to discover one of these delectible delights, to commune with your inner porko-von-popbutton and reach a porcine hangover epiphany! http://www.echonyc.com/~jkarpf/home/martini.html
Hello Anthony,
I throughly love watching your shows and especially when you are in foreign countries. I am from Recife, Brazil and the people, scenery and food there is incredible. It would be a wonderful place for you to travel too and I guarantee you would love everything about it's culture.
Mr. Bourdain, you seem like you have the best job in the world. You write about enjoying life, no matter where it takes you. I look forward to reading about future adventures.
I appreciate your willingness to be what you see is what you get. I love honesty whether I agree with the statements/opinions or not. You were my son's idol. He was a Tx Culinary Institute grad who worked at numerous restaurants before his untimely death this past summer at 23. I now understand just how very very hard everyone works in the restaurant biz. And with no sick leave, insurance or decent pay for the long hours. Thanks.
Overall I’d have to agree. Last month during when I was looking through at Borders I had a similar dilemma. I eventually to go with it.
Enough about Paula. Let's talk hot dogs. A true, American staple. With respect to hot dogs, I'm tired of the overpraising of Gray's Papaya. Sure, they're ok when you're drunk but they've usually been sitting around for a while with one side overcooked to death. And Crif Dogs are good but not great. If you really want to have a great hot dog, you'll have to go to Staten Island and skip that Tiki Bar bullshit with Buster Poindexter. Skippy's Hot Dogs in Staten Island are the best you'll ever have. Order a chili dog, one with slow cooked onions or a 'Wally Dog' and change your mind on hot dogs forever. The chili is homemade and 9-out-of-10 customers order something with chili (hot or mild).
Hi Tony,
My late father and I have roasted hogs since I was knee hight to a grasshopper, I was injured on the job as a butcher watching your show also seeing the love you have for swine.Hope you have a safe travel year keep it up.
I am sure you get these replies all the time, but I sure do enjoy your show. And even though some viewers don't appreciate the domestic visits you make nearly as much as the exotic ones, I think they're wonderful! I love seeing what wonderful diversity there is in our own country, and I love your visits with regular people, and with celebrities who get to behave like the regular people they really are. Your conversation with that 10 year old from the Hudson Valley was just as entertaining as your conversation with the real Bill Murray – just a funny guy enjoying a great meal and a part of the country he clearly loves. Thank you for a great show, and some wonderful writing to go with it! : )
I know that now you are in Portugal. I hope that you go to the right places. Portuguese food is one of the best in the world.javascript: hideMsgBox();
Tony I am a FCI triple graduated and I FUCKING LOVE YOU, you've been my ispiration for this world and as much I love Figa, I can be gay of you, I wanna work with you so bad! FUC!
Can you say "restraining order"?
When you came to Venezuela…!??
The Layover is not a good show.
The compressed time constraint of hitting the highlights of a destination should have minimized the self absorbed boring snark in favor of the destination. His "highlights" would not be good examples of how to spend a very short time in a city like Rome. His using network time to discuss the state of his anus was at once disgusting and uninteresting to anyone but Tony.
Did you ever see a facebook account that discusses vacuuming, picking up the kids at school and a short bout of vomiting. The Layover is an equally compelling use of media.
What a stuffy, bloated view of "network time". This is the same network that devotes hours of prime time with shows concerning the investigation of ghosts. And what about "Man Vs Food"? The bottom line is that Tony is entertaining. It is his personality, observations and humor that drive his shows — whatever information is gained from watching either "The Layover" or "No Reservations" should be taken as purely accidental, and collateral in nature. In the words of Bob Dylan, or someone like him: "Don't criticize what you can't understand."
Time to take your meds and lie down …
Soooo Disagree. I love the layover show, as it cuts to the chase. The trimmed production values are great. The whole program feels more real than the current full ones. I love them all, but it is good fun to see what one would do with limited time.
This was the episode that introduced me to your show. I've been to New Orleans numerous times, and love it there. I tend to watch anything dealing with the area.
Now, I'm addicted to both of your programs, and will be reading "Kitchen Confidential" as soon as my wife finishes reading.
as a programmer and a coder its some good work here. nice and clean.
Just started a website for long islanders as a community. I wanted to read Anthony's style of blog writting. And yes the website coding and his writting are both amazing. – askhoffa