SOUTHERN COMFORT
I just got back from family vacation, where, for ten days, I violated all my rules and everything I’ve ever preached about how to travel. I stayed put. I rarely left the hotel grounds. I ate in the same two restaurants for most of my trip—rarely deviating from pasta, pizza and gelato. Though there was a lake a few hundred yards walk down, I never put so much as a toe in it—spending the bulk of my days instead, splashing around in the shallow end of the pool with a Barbie pail , an inflatable porpoise, and a relentlessly energetic 4 year old girl. It was marvelous.
I missed—or was at least physically absent from—the monstrously overblown “controversy” about the dietary choices of “regular people” and the larger question of whether I am a cruel, horrible, snake-eating, Yankee liberal elitist—or just an occasionally obnoxious guy making a point. Or a bit of both. Without revisiting a week where I found myself in the rare, worrying– and yet strangely satisfying position of having both FOX News AND the New York Times drop a deuce on my head, I’ll let this Monday’s episode of NO RESERVATIONS make my argument for me.
The show begins in New Orleans, a city I feel very connected to—and continues deep into the heart of Cajun country and culture. The South—particularly (but not exclusively) Louisiana, is where “American” food comes from. There are certainly other uniquely regional cuisines and specialties in this country—but creole and Cajun constitute uniquely American-born mutations. They could not have occurred anywhere else. Like the birth of jazz—they were created at bizarre yet magical intersections of cultures and circumstances—the end products of long journeys, much pain and simple pleasures.
One of the things I’m always looking at as I travel around the world is “where the cooks come from”. And if there’s a regular feature, a common thread wherever you go in this world, it’s that the best cooks and often the best chefs come from the poorest or most challenging regions. And it is without doubt that the greatest , most beloved and iconic dishes in the pantheon of gastronomy—in any of the world’s mother cuisines—French, Italian or Chinese–originated with poor, hard-pressed, hard working farmers and laborers with no time, little money and no refrigeration.
Pot au Feu , Coq au Vin, Sup Tulang, Cassoulet, pasta, polenta, confit, —all of them began with the urgent need to make something good and reasonably sustaining out of very little. So many of the French classics began with the need to throw a bunch of stuff into a single pot over the coals, leave it simmering unattended all day while the family worked the fields, hopefully to return to something tasty and filling that would get them through the next day. French cooking, we tend to forget now, was rarely (for the majority of Frenchmen) about the best or the priciest or even the freshest ingredients. It was about taking what little you had or could afford and turning it into something delicious without interfering with the grim necessities of work and survival. The people I’m talking about here didn’t have money—or time to cook. And yet along with similarly pressed Italians, Chinese, Spanish, Portuguese, Indians and other hungry innovators around the world, they created many of the enduring great dishes of history.
So the notion that hard working, hard pressed families with little time and slim budgets have to eat crappy, processed food –or that unspeakably, proudly unhealthy “novelty dishes” that come from nowhere but the fevered imaginations of marketing departments are—or should be—the lot of the working poor is nonsense.
The many Cajuns who were good enough to host us on this Monday’s episode make this case, I think, far better than I ever could. Notice, when you watch the show, how everybody cooks. Men, women—even the kids seem to be helping out. Many aren’t cooks, per se, but everybody we met , everybody, was really, really good at at least one dish. Cajuns proudly trace their roots to a particularly harsh and brutal diaspora, followed by a steep learning curve as they adapted to an incredibly difficult new environment. Their culinary traditions reflect that.
At the traditional “boucherie” I attended, an entire community swung into action within seconds of me putting two bullets into the guest of honor. And one and all– everyone, from musicians, mechanics, to the town mayor—set about demonstrating the real guiding principles of gastronomy. Slow cooked, “smothered” and “stuffed” turkey wings, a stew made from the backbone of the pig, delicious, hot boudin made from the blood or less expensive bits, head cheese, cracklins. None of this was expensive. None of the cooks were professionally trained. But what I ate that day—and on other days—in Lafayette, Breaux Bridge and Eunice was some of the most delicious food I’ve had anywhere.
And what about New Orleans? There’s nothing fancy or expensive about the wonderfully kooky Afro-Chinese hybrid street food, Yakkamein, or red beans and rice—or the fried chicken at Willie Mae’s. A good muffaletta sandwich, an oyster Po’ Boy—these are not expensive luxuries, they’re birthrights—and no one who’s eaten them can ever say they are any less delicious than anything served in a Michelin starred dining room. Made well, by someone who knows what they’re doing, they are unimprovable by man or God. They are also, one would assume, quite delicious and quite fattening enough without squeezing them between two Cinnabons.
For ****’s sake, the South pretty much taught us all to cook. They know what good, affordable food is—having pretty much written the book on the subject. All I’m saying is that Macaroni and cheese is a good and noble dish. Deep fried macaroni and cheese is no better and certainly no more affordable.
This is the last episode of NO RESERVATIONS of this season. We begin shooting a new season in September, but in the interim period, while we’re out there travelling, I hope you’ll find amusement—and maybe even some useful information– in THE LAYOVER, a ten episode, high speed mini-series we just shot in an alternately thrilling and exhausting bounce around the world, from New York, Singapore, Hong Kong, Rome, San Francisco, Miami, Montreal, Amsterdam, London, and Los Angeles.
And for the NOLA/Cajun episode, I want to thank Lolis Eric Elie, Wendell Pierce, David Simon and everybody from the HBO series “TREME”, upon whose previous works and extensive research and experience we shamelessly piggybacked.
Anthony, I wath your show all the times and love it. I would highly recommend exploring the country of Georgia in Easter Europe. The country has 6,000 years of history of wine making and unique cuisie. It is simply a great combo of interesting culutre and great, great cuisine.
They were making wine there in 4000 B.C.? Wow, you learn something everyday.
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Mr Bourdain, my wife, my son(who is 9), and I watch your show everyday. This year we asked our son what he wanted for Christmas, his only request was for you to come to our house and cook Christmas dinner with my wife whom by the way is an excellent cook. 9 year olds, got to love them! we also love Zhair!
…By the way, have your wife on more of your episodes, her plunging neckline is so much nicer to look at than yours! Likewise for all the God Damn photo images of you on all 4 of your Facebook accounts. C'mon Man, don't these followers of yours' know you don't respond personally on any of them? What a bunch of wanna-be suck-ups. All these nice fuzzy things to say to and about you. Yeah right, who do you think your fool'in?…Not me baby!
…Next time for yourself try… the "Malaga" restaurant on Calle Ocho in Little Havana, "Cys' Rivergate" on the Miami River, the "Jamaica Inn" on Key Biscayne, "Mike Gordons" on the 79th (?) street causeway, the "Studio" in Miami proper, The "Quintessence" in Cutler Ridge, Craigs' Grouper sandwiches at the place by the same name in Key Largo, The "Greenturtle Restaurant" in IsleMorada, Shorty's on South Dixie Highway, (if they havn't changed the name to "South Rainbow Coalition Highway" ) for the PC crowd? Yes I know, now some bung-hole is going to reply to this post and say "but most of those places don't exist anylonger".
Gotta Love a guy who Loves Hot Dogs Sooooooooooo much, or meat "in any tubular form" of course!!! Way to Go Tony…don't take any BS…keep up the good work!!! See you at Grey's Papaya. My daughter doesn't even know what Grey's Papaya's is…How sad!!! She's a vegetarian…converted from ungodly Veganism…Ugh!!!
Senoir Bourdain, Thank you for not dropping a mud-monkey on the South….. Too many do and have. As you know many great dishes can be found here throughout with local variations. My wife and I have followed you from your TV beginnings (1995?). Always have loved your street savy, gritty sarcasm and warped humor. Way too many Bobby Flay types on TV showing tall froo-froo food. It seems he has been subsidized by the "Chipotle Co-Operative Food Association". It's all he talks about and uses in his creations. Christ, get that guy off TV please! I mean, I like chipotle as much as the next guy but hello Bob, there is a whole wide world of herbs and seasonings out there…….Kee-Rist…take a cooking class Robert. Enjoyed your latest "Miami Layover" episode. We resided there from 61-92' and left right after Hurricane Andrew. Geez…I know how much you like to go ther but Geez…..what a shithole that place has become. Columbian hotdogs ? WTF!
Studies do show that lower classes tend to eat fast food and not be as health concerned. Of course this does not have to be so and people can choose what they want. I am sure also a correlation exists between your education and what you eat.
Hey there Anthony ,
My daughter ,Brie Burd, is a Peace Corp worker in Port Antonio , Jamaica (Errol Flynn country) in charge of the Lion Fish Project there. How 'bout a program on the edibility of the Lion Fish to help educate the Jamaicans and Americans that this fish is not a devil fish .There are many interesting Jamaican specialties-
Sorrel is a special Christmas drink and the goat ,water crackers, and Jerk meat (any kind) are especially yummy I hear. Just a thought , Chris Burd
If you don't like the way the people in the south make food, then don't come there. You have put down Louisiana, then to top that, you insult Paula Deen. As a chef (or so called chef you claim to be), you know that ANY recipe can be modified to make it more healthier. If you have to have a econ lesson, our economy sucks, and it costs more and more to feed our families, so people are finding easy recipes to make for their families. We cant afford to cook Ribeye steaks, NY Strips and Fliet Mignon. You want to be a good chef, make food that people can afford to get, and something that is not out of reach. Are you jealous of Paula because she can make a killer mac and cheese and you cant boil a noodle to save your life. Get a life Anthony and quit your drinking, smoking and drugs. Good Riddance to you.
I'm confused you say he "put dowm Louisiana", but he talks about the food there being, "…some of the most delicious food I've had anywhere." That doesn't sound like a put down to me. You say, "If you dont like the way the people in the south make food, then don't come there." To me it sounds like he likes southern cooking. "…the South pretty much taught us all to cook. They know what good, affordable food is–having pretty much written the book on the subject." You don't like what he said about Paula Deen, then say that.
I have to tell you that, while Anthony Bourdain isn't a perfect example of healthy living and shouldn't criticize anyone for their unhealthy recipes; it seems strange to me that Paula Deen has, after three years
of having diabetes and continuing to cook the way she does without any discussion of how this rich diet might affect people's health, decided she can be a 'poster child' for those living with the disease.
It isn't fats in the diet that cause or worsen diabetes – it's sugars, and that's that.
Well, no, that isn't that. Obesity is very strongly linked to the development of type 2 diabetes, and over-consumption of fat is as great an obesity risk as over-consumption of sugar. Furthermore, standard recommendations for those who have developed type 2 diabetes call for a diet high in fiber and low in fat.
Did you read his blog post? or are you just angry about Paula Deen? I'm totally confused.
I have a few episodes of No Reservations saved on my DVR. This Cajun one is a proud member. I have watched this show a few times. Ok, more than a few times. I like to cook. I like to eat. I also think Mr. Bourdain is a talented wordsmith. I love watching all the ways a wonderful pig gave his life. really… I so wish I was there…
As to all the critics here, they can bite my shiny metal arse. You, and your channel mate Andrew, have done so much for my world awareness. I will say that No Reservations by far makes me feel as if I am there over ANY other show. Keep it up Anthony, you are doing good work.
I forgot to mention. I have family in Louisiana. I showed them both your episodes from there and and they are now big fans too. Damn your show makes me hungry… LOL
Also, "more healthier"? Perhaps you should spend less time analyzing people's personal preferences and more worrying about grammar.
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in recent Parade inset in Sunday paper, in an interview with you, asked: what is your favorite, we'll keep it a secret, 'junk food' that you sometimes have to consume. Your response was mac & cheese at KFC and Popeyes . I appreciate your wisdom, so had to try them out. Haven't made it to Popeyes yet but did KFC. My god, that was the most awful mac/cheese i have ever seen. What has happened to you? Large had at least 1/3 cup, probably more, of nasty fake go for it. My experience was inedible. I will give you and Popeyes a try.
This is the last episode of NO RESERVATIONS of this season. We begin shooting a new season in September, but in the interim period, while we’re out there travelling, I hope you’ll find amusement—and maybe even some useful information– in THE LAYOVER,
good idea
No, Antonia, he doesn't need to apologize to Paula Deen. I like Paula very much, but am aghast that she shills for Smithfield farms, who engages in cruel and destructive factory farming and foists on this country such poor quality meat that it has to be shot through with antibiotics and hormones. Until she severs ties with them, she's fair game for criticism.
You must be pretty edgy because I tried to google "POS" and still couldn't find out what it was an acronym for. I seriously doubt if you are calling Tony an "ugly point of sale." That is so obscure. I know "effing" means "fucking," though.
And even if you ever discover who your real father was, I bet they wouldn't "kick a sack full of kittens" just because you asked them to do it. I mean, who are you — the proverbial daughter from hell?
Meridith (Paula), you irresponsible, toxic-food-advocating, serial killing, bliss-ninny you. Go climb back into your sugar silo and suck a brick of butter you slow-witted, laughing cow.
POS = Piece of Paula Deen.
Buddy, if you don't know what POS means, I guess you're SOL.
Awwww…..Baby's first tantrum.
I smell romance in the air …
Dang, evolution sucks, eh? Eat what you kill man.
I read that you weren't very intelligent. I haven't heard of anyone wanting to kill you, despite your inferiority to pigs, so maybe you should quit while you're ahead of consumption and choose another venue for your petty gripes.
Tell you what, pal, I'll stop eating meat when you make me stop eating it. Until then, I'll think of you every time I eat a cheeseburger, cut of veal, lobster that was boiled alive, or foie gras, and all the tears you shed over the food that I choose to eat. Back to my opening shot, there's no way you're going to convince people to stop eating meat. I don't care how smart pigs are, I don't care how much pain or shame they may or may not feel at being food. I have the means to eat them, so I will. You'll no more break me of eating meat than you will wolves, lions, sharks, or birds of prey. Accept it, find another cause.
Does that mean we should be cannibals?
Hey owl eyes, what a hoot!
Did you know that long ago, Panda Bears were omnivorous, and part of their diet was meat. At some point in their evolution they switched to bamboo leaves and have never looked back. Look at them today — everybody just loves them. They are rock stars in China. Can you say the same about Black Bears or Grizzlies? I don't think so. Case closed.
They're also the only species of animal literally going extinct because they're too stupid to know where to stick it and can't breed properly.
And look at the evolutionary winners they are now. They get so little nutrients they have to hibernate, even though they don't often life where there are harsh winters, simply because what they eat doesn't give them enough energy to stay awake. Yeah, rock stars.
With in only 2 orifices available for this kind of intercourse, it would be mathematically impossible for the Panda to stick in in the wrong hole at such a high percentage as to threaten the procreation of their species.
The real reasons for their endangered status are due to human encroachment on their habitat and the effect this has had. They know how to fuck.
Zoos actively try to breed them whenever they can. Not very many animals have trouble breeding when you put two of them of opposite sexes in the same enclosure for long enough, but pandas, they just don't know what to do. That's why whenever one is born, it's a big celebration, because it's so rare that they actually figure out how to fuck.
What the hell are you talking about? You can't turn on the news without seeing some precious baby panda at some local zoo. Breeding while in confinement is not that uncommon. Just because humans have no problems with shagging anything that moves when locked up does not necessarily mean — but I digress. So you think Panda's suck — you need help.
Ever heard of Kung Fu Panda? Oh yeah, and the actor who voices that character is none other than Jack Black. So, duh, yeah — Rock Stars.
Do you honestly believe that after millions of years of evolution the Panda Bear can simply switch off hibernation just because their climate changed. If that were true, all the white folks who moved to South Africa would be black by now. You Panda haters would greatly benefit from hibernating — you would think clearer.
I agree with you that RedNeckVegan's posts are an absurd waste of time, especially in this forum, but I need to correct you on the panda hibernation comment. Pandas do NOT hibernate because their diet does not provide them with enough nutrients to survive that amount of time without feeding. For the exact same reason though, they cannot afford to expend too much energy in their waking hours, which is why they, unrightfully, have been labeled as sweet, gentle giants.
One guy says that Pandas only hibernate because they have a crappy diet, and you say they aren't "sweet, gentle giants" — they really suffer from obesity and malnutrition. Who are you people?
I wonder if Anthony Bourdain knows that his blog has become a magnate for Panda haters. Absurd and a waste of time, indeed …
well said