The mountain village of Furcy, Haiti. All photos by Kathleen Rellihan

“You’re going where?!”

I got that reaction a lot when telling people I was going to Haiti. That, and a long silence … or a raised eyebrow.

As someone who’s been known to plan last-minute trips, sometimes solo, I have been used to people doing double-takes. Usually, though, it’s just my dad who’s shocked, like the time I told him I was skipping Thanksgiving and heading to Iceland, alone, in the dead of winter.  But this time, it was pretty much everyone who was surprised.

Did they think Haiti was too dangerous? Did they have mixed feelings about the voluntourism that I was about to embark on  … that, perhaps, it wasn’t sustainable and, at best, just a feel-good activity. Or maybe my friends and family were just shocked that once again I was skipping Thanksgiving, and this time for an even less likely location … Haiti.

Haiti?

Neg Mawon, the statue of the Unknown Slave, in downtown Port-au-Prince.

Yes, the Caribbean country that’s known as the poorest in the Americas … that, 4 years after a devastating 7.0-magnitude earthquake left at least 300,000 people dead, is still struggling to find its way forward.

Yes, that Haiti.

So how exactly did Haiti make my travel list?

I have my longtime travel buddy, Stephanie Price, who has been volunteering in Haiti’s capital city of Port-au-Prince since 2010, to thank for introducing me to this complex, and often misrepresented, country.

Stephanie and I first met while studying abroad in Florence, Italy, and our friendship soon took root in Italian cafes as we sipped cappuccinos and dreamed of where we wanted to travel to after college. In the decade to come, we would reunite in places like Thailand or back in our old stomping grounds in Italy. But when Stephanie quit her advertising job in New York to volunteer in Haiti after the 2010 earthquake, she inspired me to take travel to a whole new level.

A young boy in the countryside of Haiti.

While both of us had made travel a priority in the decade after college, Stephanie focused her trips on volunteering all over the world, on behalf of everyone from young women in Cambodia to slum dwellers in India. While she was volunteering around the world, I was taking trips that were purely centered on my own whims … like the time I shelled out ridiculous amounts of money to sleep in a hotel made of ice or headed to Costa Rica to learn to surf.

In the years after the 2010 earthquake, Stephanie, on the other hand, was dividing her time between living in New York and volunteering in Haiti. While she worked with several different organizations in Haiti, she eventually found her home at English in Mind, one of the only free Haitian-led adult English schools in Port-au-Prince. In Haiti, knowing English greatly improves Haitians chances of finding long-term, meaningful employment, and Stephanie has been doing her part to make that happen.

As Stephanie would stay a night or two with me in between her trips back and forth to Haiti, her passion for the country and its people became evident in the colorful stories she would share. Many of these stories centered on her students, mostly between the ages of 18 and 30, who would affectionately refer to her as “mom” and she would refer to as “my 190 Haitian children.”

One of Haiti’s beautiful and public beaches north of Port-au-Prince.

I soon became intrigued with Stephanie’s work and decided to sign up for one of her 10-day English in Mind volunteer trips that she leads in Haiti throughout the year. In the month or so before my trip to Haiti, I scoured books and articles researching the country, trying to prepare myself mentally and emotionally for the unsettling images of extreme poverty and ruin, especially following the 2010 earthquake.

To my surprise, though, upon landing in Port-au-Prince and reaching the English in Mind school, I saw something that I wasn’t expecting: As all of us new bleary-eyed volunteers who walked through the school gates were greeted by a crowd of Haitian students with huge smiles on their faces, applauding and cheering our arrival.

The coming days brought even more unexpected images, like the moment I turned around on a hike in the Haitian countryside to see a growing number of giggling children following us through the tall grass as we passed by their village. Then there was the night a small group of Haitian students tore up the dance floor and tried to teach us new moves as the Haitian house band RAM played up a storm at the storied Hotel Oloffson.

 

Mountains of Furcy, Haiti.

These are the simple, everyday moments that made up my Haiti trip, and soon eclipsed any other images that I had been bracing myself for upon arrival.

Of course, this 10-day trip was just the beginning, just an introduction to Haiti and its many layers. The big heroes of this country are the locals and volunteers who stay for years on end, who have never left Haiti — or can’t leave — and have fought to rebuild the country, especially after the 2010 earthquake. These are the people whose work and impact on this country are immeasurable, unsung and unfathomable.

So what can one traveler, going for a short stint, even accomplish here?

The treehouse at Rustik, an eco-lodge in Furcy, Haiti.

On the last day of school, I stood up at the end of class and publicly made a promise to the students (and more so, to myself) that I would return to Haiti.

Just as Stephanie imparted to me, and has imparted to the dozens and dozens of volunteers who pass through her school’s doors, I realized that a volunteer, however short his or her stint, is needed here — first and foremost, so each and every one of us can then go back home and share our experiences with friends, family — and yes, you, too, Dad — about how this country really is worth visiting, really is worth believing in and really is worth celebrating.

That word-of-mouth, one traveler at a time, can make a huge difference, and open the conversation to future travelers, to put an often-overlooked country on their travel list.

Haiti has miles and miles of unspoiled beaches to explore.

Whether it’s for the warm and resilient people, the raucous Carnival, the ceremonial Rara music, the amazing art made out of found objects, the pristine undeveloped Caribbean beaches, the breathtaking mountains — there’s so much to discover in Haiti for those willing to step outside their comfort zone.

Here’s a Haiti tourism video that pretty much sums what this country has to offer: “Anybody who comes here is stepping out of the ordinary. People don’t come here to enjoy air-conditioning, color TV, and pools and saunas. They come here to taste something that we offer… something that is very warm and very real. But there is more than that, there is the human factor.”

Volunteers and students at English in Mind school in Port-au-Prince, Haiti. (Photo courtesy of English in Mind)

Yes, the human factor. That actually hooked me more than the country’s beautiful beaches. It was my interaction with English in Mind’s students — in seeing their passion and motivation — that truly inspired me to continue to learn more about, and to make return visits to, this beautiful country.

So now, after telling friends, family, coworkers — anyone who will listen — about my first trip to Haiti, I get smiles, nods and plenty of positive responses when, upon learning of my experiences there, they ask, “Where are you going next?” and I reply “Back to Haiti.”

Yes, that’s right, I’m heading back to Haiti in April. Want to join?

_____

 

English in Mind, one of the only free Haitian-led adult English schools in Port-au-Prince, offers 10-day volunteer trips throughout the year that include teaching, service work and, of course, visits to the beautiful beaches and mountains of Haiti.

 

 

More on Haiti:
Haiti: The Next Hot Tourist Destination?
Bourdain in Port-au-Prince, Haiti
Todd Carmichael Hunts for Coffee in Haiti

 

6 Responses

  1. Martin says:

    A good picture and a good place! nice post!

  2. Christina says:

    Always wanted to go to Haiti. I'll have to put it on my bucket list. Thanks for the post.

  3. Christina says:

    My name is Christina and Am glad you like my country!!

  4. Richard says:

    I lived there for almost 1 and a half years after the earthquake. I cannot truthfully say that all of the time I spent there was entirely positive. However, I did have an unbelievable experience there that I would not trade for anything in the world. That being said, I would recommend going down there, but only to experienced travelers. ps: Love RAM and had the opportunity to see them in a few different venues, the best being the Olafson witb Canadian band (as I am) The Arcade Fire

  5. leslie says:

    Where is my Friday night shiw!!! Or should I say where are my Friday night shows!! I am so bummed. Dead Files. Friday night– crap. MYSTERIES AT THE MUSEUM…REALLY???? CRAP. IT'S A GOOD SHOW BUT IT'S FOR SUNDAY MORNINGS.

  6. tosh says:

    I also love Haiti.

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Kathleen RellihanKathleen Rellihan is a digital producer, writer and editor for TravelChannel.com. A Washington, DC, resident, Kathleen's love for adventure travel has inspired her to sleep in an ice hotel in...

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